The Bass/Tohatsu D motor!

[jeff55vDSH]

I have been working with the APBA and Bass Machines to help get this motor fully approved.
You can read all about the latest news at my webpage. I also have a bunch of pictures posted there.
Let me know what you think about this new motor.

Jeff's tohatsu page (http://jeff55v.tripod.com/id31.html)

[hydroc888]

To bad it doesnt say something that is AMERICAN made , but I guess thats the way life is these days.

[jeff55vDSH]

This is my Bass/Tohatsu D stock racing engine. I have yet to take delivery of the motor. Once Bass machines is finished with it, it will go to Mike Weinandt's shop for dyno testing. There it will be tested side by side with a competitive Merc 44xs. I'll share with everyone any dyno test result info I recieve. After Mike is done with it, I'll get it! Then the fun will begin!
:p

[jeff55vDSH]

Here's the finished product. You'll see the addition of the "Competition only" sticker on the side. That's a requirement by the E.P.A. But I think it looks cool anyway! If it were up to me I'd make the sticker on the side read "For Butt kickin' only!" But I guess that's not my call.
The motor has been shipped to Weinandt Performance Technology for evaluation. Mike is very busy at his shop right now. When he gets info to me, I'll let everyone know what he finds. (Gee, I hope it doesn't overload his dyno! ;) )

BTW, Except for a couple bearings in the lower unit, The towerhousing and lower unit are 100% American made. :)

[kws]

Cool Jeff, May you kick butt and take names

[jeff55vDSH]

David, I'm afraid you heard wrong. Sid and Neil Bass have the gears made for them here in the U.S. I don't know exactly WHO makes them. But I guess I could find out more. Better yet, I'll alert Neil to this thread.
:)

[Fast Fred]

the 50D is a good moda, the crank being it's weak point, once thats set and the ports are alined with the case, she cranks up :eek: change the top plate and the drive shaft spline, and you could put any powerhead up thare. :cool:

[Fast Fred]

dose it have a water pump? the impeler kind with a pick up? :cool:

[jeff55vDSH]

Yes the Bass Lower unit/Tower use a water pump impeller in combination with a force feed water pickup. I think the idea is, once the water pressure at the force feed pickup becomes great enough (high speed), the water pump impeller blades pretty much freewheel inside the water pump housing.
I'll attach an introductory document about the Bass/Tohatsu motor and test results from 2004 to this post.
:)

[jeff55vDSH]

I don't need to know what company actually makes the gears. Who cares as long as they are good gears?! From what I've heard from most people that use that unit, they have "good gears".

Why don't they slim down, sharpen the leading edges, etc. of that unit?

David, I hear ya loud and clear about the gears. I agree.

Neil sent me an Email in response to your question about the gearcase shaping, or lack of it.

" We do very little to the leading edge of the lower unit to keep the costs down. We have sold about 100 units to the mod folks who can do anything they want with the shape. Some have improved on the skag leading edge, but I have no idea if helped. We intend to keep the stock units as they are so as not to make it too much faster than the 44xs and to keep costs down.
Neil "

[Fast Fred]

a set of 70hp carbs, (set the crank) snip the gray wire comin out the black box,
clip the head, hit it at 18deg. that will wake it up, :eek:
so hows much for the mid, braket and the foot?ya got a shot of the mid with out the foot?( would like to see the mounting surface maybe need a foot with mo beef) ware is the water pick up on that foot? 10" mid? hows manys hp thay thinkin the foot will take? :cool:

[Ron Hill]

Looks like this sucker would "ROCK" on a tunnel...Why not 45SS Division II???

Ross, don't read this!!!

[Fast Fred]

was thinkin the same on the foot, :eek: , but maybe thay over built it,

a universal mid would be cool :cool:

[Fast Fred]

15", need a 15"mid :cool:

[jeff55vDSH]

The towerhousing is 8.5". I think it's the same as the 44xs.
I think when Bass Machines originally designed the lower unit, they had Modified outboard racing in mind. I've heard from several people it's one of the few lower units that will hold up well under the 3 cylinder OMC FE beast! So it should last a long time under a tame little 50hp motor. ;)
Neil wrote me the following...
" We have successfully run the lower unit under lots of modified OMC 75 HP engines, a highly modified 1100 cc 6 cylinder merk MK 75, and other engines. We shaped the lower unit to avoid the unit riding the surface as does the 44xs and the 45ss unit (rock, swerve and role). Talk with the FE drivers to get a sense of the performance.
Neil "

I tried to attach a document (doc) to tell more about the products. But I'm having trouble with the filesize. It's too large for the forum to accept. I'm outta computer time for today. Maybe I can think of a way to get around it and post it tomorrow.

Hey Fred, It sounds like you've already had a lot of experience with the M50D2 powerhead. How did you come to know so much about it? Inflatables? Or Mod racing? Or...? I have a lot to learn about the motor, and can't wait to get started!

[Fast Fred]

make the crank look like this ( take it to someone), then you can crankit up,
mains and throws, take it to a cycle drag crank guy, then you can beat the bag out of it and she'll stay together :cool: , other wise, well you know :eek: :eek: :cool:

[Jeff Akers]

make the crank look like this ( take it to someone), then you can crankit up,
mains and throws, take it to a cycle drag crank guy, then you can beat the bag out of it and she'll stay together :cool: , other wise, well you know :eek: :eek: :cool:

I used to ride standup jetskis in "BIG SURF". It didnt take long to find out the pined cranks were a weak link. The constant loading and unloading would kill a crank in no time!!!
I got very good at pulling cranks out of the KAWI 440,550,and 650cc motors and puting them on a lathe with a dial indacator to check the runout befor welding them.

(Beat the bag out of it!) That was the hardest part!!!
Make a mark on the crank ware the run out was, pull it out of the lathe hold it in your hand and "wack it" with a 5# deadblow hammer. put it back on the lathe and re check the run out !!!! (Repete as needed until the crank is strait and true!) this could take some time!

Once the crank was welded it was bullet proof :cool:

If I were going to buy the Bass D I would weld the crank just for peice of mind :)

[jeff55vDSH]

D stock Jeff.... That may not be legal in stock.

Good point David. Crankshaft welding is something that prolongs an engines longevity. It is not a speed advantage. Common sense would say that it should be legal. HOWEVER, since this is APBA S.O. I'm dealing with here, I'd better see if I can suggest that to the techical commitee to include that in the rulebook.
:)

[Fast Fred]

it will lose it's index, or worse if ya try to push it past the rev limiter with out settin the crank, for sure. :cool:

[Ron Hill]

Stock my ***!!!! A new Runne OMC "A" is $2,000 without a gearcase!!!! (Gary Lewis just bought one)...

And what does it REALLY COST to make a YAMATO RUN????? WHat is the cost of a YAMATO without a welded crank??? Seems to me, welding the Yamato would make sense, too...

DAREN...TELL US...

Weld the FRIGGING Cranks and get i over with...and if they have rev limiters, get a hold of Sean Hill at RAPAIR and get rid of that "SUCKER", too...

NASCAR...S is for STOCK.....about as Stock as Stock Outboard....

I'd love to see a STOCK OUTBOARD CLASS!!!!!! (Like they sell at ANY BOAT SHOP USA!!!!!)....

[mercguy]

Stock my ***!!!! A new Runne OMC "A" is $2,000 without a gearcase!!!! (Gary Lewis just bought one)...

And what does it REALLY COST to make a YAMATO RUN????? WHat is the cost of a YAMATO without a welded crank??? Seems to me, welding the Yamato would make sense, too...

DAREN...TELL US...

Weld the FRIGGING Cranks and get i over with...and if they have rev limiters, get a hold of Sean Hill at RAPAIR and get rid of that "SUCKER", too...

NASCAR...S is for STOCK.....about as Stock as Stock Outboard....

I'd love to see a STOCK OUTBOARD CLASS!!!!!! (Like they sell at ANY BOAT SHOP USA!!!!!)....

Ron, damn it, I knew this was going to happen! FYI, to make a "stock" Yamato run, it costs an EXTRA $800-900, on top of the purchase of the engine! Atleast you can buy a "stock" 302 foot for $450 ish. The darn OMC costs even more to "make it fast", plus the puchase of the $900ish foot.....but, the foot is "ready to go", shaped and contoured.....

there is NO stock motor anymore......and I doubt there really ever was. Now Ron, how "stock" are Chad's 45 powerheads??????

stock ain't fast, MODIFIED stock IS!!! ;)

Daren "mercguy" has just left the building............

[Mark75H]

The towerhousing is 8.5". I think it's the same as the 44xs.
I think when Bass Machines originally designed the lower unit, they had Modified outboard racing in mind. I've heard from several people it's one of the few lower units that will hold up well under the 3 cylinder OMC FE beast! So it should last a long time under a tame little 50hp motor. ;)
Neil wrote me the following...
" We have successfully run the lower unit under lots of modified OMC 75 HP engines, a highly modified 1100 cc 6 cylinder merk MK 75, and other engines. We shaped the lower unit to avoid the unit riding the surface as does the 44xs and the 45ss unit (rock, swerve and role). Talk with the FE drivers to get a sense of the performance.
Neil "

I tried to attach a document (doc) to tell more about the products. But I'm having trouble with the filesize. It's too large for the forum to accept. I'm outta computer time for today. Maybe I can think of a way to get around it and post it tomorrow.

Hey Fred, It sounds like you've already had a lot of experience with the M50D2 powerhead. How did you come to know so much about it? Inflatables? Or Mod racing? Or...? I have a lot to learn about the motor, and can't wait to get started!

I converted the file to a .pdf and Adobe resized it to ⅓ the original file size.

If you don't have Acrobat Reader to open this file, click this link to download the free version:

http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readstep2.html


-

[David Mason]

Ron, damn it, I knew this was going to happen! FYI, to make a "stock" Yamato run, it costs an EXTRA $800-900, on top of the purchase of the engine! Atleast you can buy a "stock" 302 foot for $450 ish. The darn OMC costs even more to "make it fast", plus the puchase of the $900ish foot.....but, the foot is "ready to go", shaped and contoured.....

there is NO stock motor anymore......and I doubt there really ever was. Now Ron, how "stock" are Chad's 45 powerheads??????

stock ain't fast, MODIFIED stock IS!!! ;)

Daren "mercguy" has just left the building............


Nice Darren. It is called racing, people will from the very nature of the definition of racing will try to find an edge. Create an off the shelf class, then the next season tell me if anyone has "blueprinted" the engines.................. Off the shelf motors are usually junk compared to what we use. The tolerences at factories are controled by Jose on the assembly line and if he got to drunk last night he might not set up the tooling right, etc. Off the shelf sucks, and I would never support it. Turn a stock off the shelf OMC 49.9 CI motor on a racing tower and lower unit, at 9000 RPM and let me know if your teeth are still intact.

[Mark75H]

Dave, I have no trouble with blueprinting in stock - until it allows work that makes a "blueprinted" motor better than each and every motor made by the factory - even by the guys that weren't hung over and carefully set up their machines every time.

Blueprinting to match is fine, blueprinting to exceed ruins "stock" for everyone

[Cameraboy]

Stock my ***!!!! A new Runne OMC "A" is $2,000 without a gearcase!!!! (Gary Lewis just bought one)...


Maybe if people would quit paying those prices, they wouldn't keep going up. A DiFebo A complete in Fall of 2002 was $2,000. He wanted $2,500 for one this Spring. Now we are at $3,000 for a Runne. You can still find decent A motors for under $2,000. It would help if all of the ones sitting in the barn would come on the market. The only thing rare is the prices and the number of people who can/will work on them.

[mercguy]

Maybe if people would quit paying those prices, they wouldn't keep going up. A DiFebo A complete in Fall of 2002 was $2,000. He wanted $2,500 for one this Spring. Now we are at $3,000 for a Runne. You can still find decent A motors for under $2,000. It would help if all of the ones sitting in the barn would come on the market. The only thing rare is the prices and the number of people who can/will work on them.

I remember Phillip DiFebo telling me at the Nat's, that he wanted $2000 for an A motor, MINUS foot!! If you think about it, he has already done the "added" $900 or so of work to the powerhead, so is not really out of line on what an A motor will cost to go fast!

but, think about this.....in about 5yrs, the Hot Rod A motor will be out there..........prices will sink for the OMC's!

I have seen Yamato 80/102/302's advertised for sale for around $2000 and have had a hard time selling. But, some of these motors were JUST gone through by either TJ, Goller, Davids, etc, which would add another $800 or so to the price of buying the "stock unopened" motor, which would probably cost around $1500.......so, in the long run, is easily worth the $2000, of which the motor probably sold for around $1700-1800.

[mercguy]

Nice Darren. It is called racing, people will from the very nature of the definition of racing will try to find an edge. Create an off the shelf class, then the next season tell me if anyone has "blueprinted" the engines.................. Off the shelf motors are usually junk compared to what we use. The tolerences at factories are controled by Jose on the assembly line and if he got to drunk last night he might not set up the tooling right, etc. Off the shelf sucks, and I would never support it. Turn a stock off the shelf OMC 49.9 CI motor on a racing tower and lower unit, at 9000 RPM and let me know if your teeth are still intact.


I agree 100% with ya Dave........

[mercguy]

Dave, I have no trouble with blueprinting in stock - until it allows work that makes a "blueprinted" motor better than each and every motor made by the factory - even by the guys that weren't hung over and carefully set up their machines every time.

Blueprinting to match is fine, blueprinting to exceed ruins "stock" for everyone

Sam, can you explain what you mean by "blueprinting to exceed"?? The stock commission has given the guidlines for each motor to which all can have done.......leveling the field. Although, it makes it very tough for the new driver that just started racing with limited funds. But, in a few years, he or she then has the ability to reach the next level. This is sort of the way it went for me. I know alot of new racers get frustrated (I did!) because they are getting beat constantly and some just give up. Well, it takes time and MONEY to get to the top, if someone says otherwise, then that is horsecrap!

[Fast Fred]

thats when ya throw 60 thou in to the exhaust ports, and then cover it up
so ya can't tell it was mest with, or ya clip the head an extra 20 thou, and lay a ton O' paint on the top of the head so she mesures up right, that kinda stuff. :eek: :cool: :eek:

[Mark75H]

No, Fred, none of that would pass an APBA inspection. Even the most blind inspector would find that kind of work


Sam, can you explain what you mean by "blueprinting to exceed"?? ........ it takes time and MONEY to get to the top, if someone says otherwise, then that is horsecrap!

Where blueprinting is allowed, with the intent to make any motor as good as the best motor from the factory, blueprinting is very good. When allowed blueprinting intentionally produces motors that exceed the best factory motor - it is no longer normal blueprinting; that is altering to increase performance.

I agree with you 100% on your last statement. Those who think otherwise are just looking for instant gratification

[Fast Fred]

seen it fly, the inspector did not know what to look for :eek: seen it fly for sure,
like it or not, :eek:

[mercguy]

seen it fly, the inspector did not know what to look for :eek: seen it fly for sure,
like it or not, :eek:


well, you can bet it would be caught by the APBA Chief Inspector in the Stock Outboard Ranks!! He is one sharp cookie and a builder also!!

[mercguy]

No, Fred, none of that would pass an APBA inspection. Even the most blind inspector would find that kind of work



Where blueprinting is allowed, with the intent to make any motor as good as the best motor from the factory, blueprinting is very good. When allowed blueprinting intentionally produces motors that exceed the best factory motor - it is no longer normal blueprinting; that is altering to increase performance.

I agree with you 100% on your last statement. Those who think otherwise are just looking for instant gratification

Sam, can you give me an example to this statement? I am just trying to understand what has been done and if it can be corrected, in some way?

"When allowed blueprinting intentionally produces motors that exceed the best factory motor - it is no longer normal blueprinting; that is altering to increase performance."

[Fast Fred]

ya well, ware do ya think those tricks came from, some fishermin, not.
:cool:

[Mark75H]

ya well, ware do ya think those tricks came from, some fishermin, not. :cool:

I don't think we are on the same planet :confused:

[Fast Fred]

sorry, we are, :cool:

[Fast Fred]

thats not an inspector bash, it also was a vary long time ago, :cool:

[Neil_M50D2]

The at the last annual meeting the SORC approved .030 inch beveling the exhaust port on the 44xs. The logic, as I understand, was that some engine builders have been doing that and they have been inspected but were not caught so the SORC legalized the beveling. Looks to me like raising the exhaust port by .030 inches. If that amount of bevel is so necessary, why are they not beveling the transfer port? From my experience, the transfer port does not need to go up. So much for stock.
Neil

[Fast Fred]

such Beveling Makes more peak HP, :cool:

[Fast Fred]

well any who, I can't open that file, seemed like Mark 75h tryed to make it easier to open but no luck. so if some ones got a phone nub' to call or some thing, i would like to by one. :cool:

[Cameraboy]

I remember Phillip DiFebo telling me at the Nat's, that he wanted $2000 for an A motor, MINUS foot!! If you think about it, he has already done the "added" $900 or so of work to the powerhead, so is not really out of line on what an A motor will cost to go fast!

but, think about this.....in about 5yrs, the Hot Rod A motor will be out there..........prices will sink for the OMC's!

I have seen Yamato 80/102/302's advertised for sale for around $2000 and have had a hard time selling. But, some of these motors were JUST gone through by either TJ, Goller, Davids, etc, which would add another $800 or so to the price of buying the "stock unopened" motor, which would probably cost around $1500.......so, in the long run, is easily worth the $2000, of which the motor probably sold for around $1700-1800.

Daren, what Dominic has said on Hydroracer, and what I can comfirm from my own experience, is that Phillip buys junkyard powerheads and builds them up. That's how good he is at what he does. You can pay $2K for one of his motors w/out gearcase, but you still have to have a good hull, and the right props, and test, test, test. And you still might get beat by a $1,700 motor.


Where are you finding bone stock 302s for $1,500? I want one. :D

[Mark75H]

well any who, I can't open that file, seemed like Mark 75h tryed to make it easier to open but no luck. so if some ones got a phone nub' to call or some thing, i would like to by one.

Bass Machine in the BRF Business listings (http://www.boatracingfacts.com/forums/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=1478)

[jeff55vDSH]

Just in case there are some folks here who have not yet seen the Bass Machines micro adjustable swivel bracket. Here's a photo of the adjuster.

[Neil_M50D2]

Leaving it on the boat is convenient, but there is a method for easy removal. Most boats have a 1/8 to 1/4 metal sheet on the back of the transom. We recommend the sheet be set about 3/8-inches above the top of the transom so as to "catch" the vertical adjustment screws. The engine can be set on the boat without lots of extra help to align the bolts. The same arrangement can be done in the trailer. Set on the transom; align the boltholes, secure with four 1/2-inch bolts. To adjust height, loosen the four bolts and adjust the vertical screws as desired. To adjust the kick-out, loosen the 3/4-inch kick out-bolt and adjust the thrust pad bolt to the desired position. Tighten the 3/4-inch kick-out bolt, maybe 60 foot-pounds. The system is held firmly in the adjusted position.

Hope this helps,
Neil Bass

[Thomasj]

nice looking setup.

ive been running 50d's in my thundercats for years now.

We run standard class with minimum mods allowed only to keep costs down. One of these mods is 'welding the crank'. To make the sport cheap and fair, you are better off being preventive than fork out more cash when it lets go.

We do thrash our beasts a bit more than you circut guys, but even the flat water guys here weld and that goes for yamahas aswell.

I noticed you don't get the 50D or D2's in the states, im surprised!

Let me know if someone wants one as I have many mates here who can hook you up (and we speak english) :)

Thomas
tom@goldcoastthundercats.com.au

[RichardKCMo]

Thomas, whats the diff. in what we have here as surplus?
carburated i think.
RichardKCMo

[Thomasj]

I read eariler in this post that you have to import the 50D from japan (is this right?)

I know for a fact they do not manufacture 50D's anymore(or parts), you can get 50D2's though and the new directinjected 50's.

Only difference in a 50d to 50d2 is the head, exhaust, jets

[Fast Fred]

that you in that Aquarius, thare Thomasj :cool:

[jeff55vDSH]

I read eariler in this post that you have to import the 50D from japan (is this right?)

I know for a fact they do not manufacture 50D's anymore(or parts), you can get 50D2's though and the new directinjected 50's.

Only difference in a 50d to 50d2 is the head, exhaust, jets

The Bass/Tohatsu Motor is an M50D2. Which by the way has recently been fully approved by A.P.B.A. for use in the D stock class. Now the motor is ready to go racing in all three major American sanctioning bodies!

The reason we have to import the powerhead from Japan is because only the fuel injected powerhead is E.P.A. approved in this country.
(Environmental Protection Agency)
Bass Machines has recieved a waiver from the E.P.A. to import the M50D2 powerhead (carburated) for racing purposes only.
:)
I just got my powerhead back from Dyno testing. I look forward to racing it in the spring!

[Thomasj]

wow you guys have some tight laws!

Well, I have a 50D2 forsale right now but shipping to the US would be a killer. $2500 AUD, roughly USD 1,896.55 for complete motor.

How much is that gear case/trunk/bracket worth? is that off the shelf?

[Mark75H]

I think it is about $1600 US and yes it is off the shelf from Bass Machine

[jeff55vDSH]

How much is that gear case/trunk/bracket worth? is that off the shelf?

Below are 2004 prices for some of Bass Machines products. You'd have to get in touch with Bass Machines to get their updated price list.
:)

Major Replacement Component Prices:


Available from Bass Machines
Tower Housing $ 400
Powerhead Adapter $ 300
Lower Unit $1400
Gears $ 450
Lower Unit Shaft, ea. $ 150
12mm Coupling $ 50


All prices are subject to change without notice
Add packaging and shipping
Add Washington State sales tax for Washington residents

TO Order Contact:

Sid Bass
2622 Rocky Point Rd
Bremerton, WA 98312
Shop (360) 373-3839

[JohnsonM50]

dose it have a water pump? the impeller kind with a pick up? :cool: Yes they do have impeller pumps available in the midsection shown, I beleive its a merc 500 pump and it works great. You can also run force fed to the low water pick up just before the skeg [requires 40mph w/ 1/2in feedline] The transome mount system wasnt available yet when I got mine, I heard it would be full adjusting -not just pin holes or 5 side cams. Anyone seen it yet?

[Mark75H]

We've seen it right here on BRF! :)

Go to post 4 on page one and post #50 on page 5. I think that is what you are talking about ...

[JohnsonM50]

We've seen it right here on BRF! :)

Go to post 4 on page one and post #50 on page 5. I think that is what you are talking about ...
read b4 askin? thanks

[Cajun]

Hey Jeff: Good to see Tohatsu back on the racing scene. I raced for Tohatsu of Japan from 1993-1999. We started the Formula 50 Class in APBA. It began as all manufacturers STOCK 50hp motors of 45 or less cubic inches. We were allowed a nosecone on our stock gearcases, and a 1" or less hole in the exhaust portion of the gearcase. Could not have a scratch inside the block. As the Class progressed, the Yamaha's were given several advantages to attempt to help them stay up with the Tohatsu. They never accomplished their goal and the class died off about 1996. Here is a shot of the last boat I had built for the class. Not sure how you guys are running, I managed to run 82.7 mph with this YEEEHA tunnel. This was the second generation YEEEHA, it led to the demise of the class. This boat was 13 mph faster than my original. The original was about 3-5 mph faster than the Yamaha's on the exact same hulls. I went through 7 powerheads the first year, spun crankshafts. The second year, 1994, I was allowed to tack weld the cranks, it was all over then.
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p95/1995US1/raceboat.jpg

[OUTBOARDER]

Hey Jeff: Good to see Tohatsu back on the racing scene. I raced for Tohatsu of Japan from 1993-1999. We started the Formula 50 Class in APBA. It began as all manufacturers STOCK 50hp motors of 45 or less cubic inches. We were allowed a nosecone on our stock gearcases, and a 1" or less hole in the exhaust portion of the gearcase. Could not have a scratch inside the block. As the Class progressed, the Yamaha's were given several advantages to attempt to help them stay up with the Tohatsu. They never accomplished their goal and the class died off about 1996. Here is a shot of the last boat I had built for the class. Not sure how you guys are running, I managed to run 82.7 mph with this YEEEHA tunnel. This was the second generation YEEEHA, it led to the demise of the class. This boat was 13 mph faster than my original. The original was about 3-5 mph faster than the Yamaha's on the exact same hulls. I went through 7 powerheads the first year, spun crankshafts. The second year, 1994, I was allowed to tack weld the cranks, it was all over then.
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p95/1995US1/raceboat.jpg

It is really awsome!

[quty06]

That was awesome speed.

I guess you still have the prop, wanna to sell, PM me.

[Cajun]

APBA let us weld the cranks on the Tohatsu's in the Formula 50 Class back in 94. It won't last 2 laps without a welded crank. First year of Formula 50 I spun 7 cranks. We were allowed to weld the cranks for the 1995 year, it was Katy bar the door.
http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p95/1995US1/raceboat.jpg