Any mods for a '12 Evinrude Etec 60

[HGipson]

Wondering if there are or have been any mods to increase speeds/power with a I2 BRP Etec block. Who ugly about removing the intake baffle/resonated and trying to shave some weight somewhere. Didn't know if anyone else had tried or heard of it. Thanks in advance!!

[phillnjack]

dont think anyone has been brave enough to break up a 2012 engine just yet.

now you have to remember that anything you do to the e-tec is going to need the computer re-programed.
the ecu on the engine is critical to the smooth running of the e-tec.

i would imagine you can have it re-programed to give a bit more power, but the longevity and warranty will suffer big time.
the 60hp e-tec is not to be confused with the old style 2 strokes,its very very different and very clean running when compared to the old engines.
this is why there is racing for just clean engines cropping up all over the world.

i think mercury does a clean race spec engine, but dont know if evinrude do one yet.

in the uk e-tecs race against e-tecs of the same hp and are only allowed different props and stuff like that.


what speed are you getting now ?
on what boat ?
with what size prop ?
and how high is the engine ?

even i have learned from a few of the race guru's on here about certain props and also running height making
a huge difference.


phill.........

[HGipson]

Right now I'm only getting 38-40 mph. I can't get any trim out of it before it starts porpoising. Hull is an Alumacraft 1546 Semi V. Cavitation plate has been anywhere from 2" below to 2" above and it didn't help any in between. Brand new hull and motor. May end up selling this hull and getting something a little faster that won't bounce. Maybe a CMC BA-130 and CMC Manual Jack plate for 10" setback total and an Edge duck boat or War Eagle. Current prop is a BRP Raker 13.75 x 18" 22 degree prop. Looking at getting a Ron Hill 12.5 x 20 Yamaha style drag with an Etec hub kit. The speeds I'm getting now are with 0 degree trim. As soon as I hit the trim button it starts to porpoise. Thanks man

[phillnjack]

well 40mph aint slow

what is the revs

[HGipson]

well 40mph aint slow

what is the revs

I don't know I'm guessing around 6000 but I don't have a RPM gauge. It's a tiller steer. I'm not racing just duck hunting and like to get it done. Been told the Alumacraft hull won't handle the speeds without pop rousing and I'd rather just buy another to calm it down. Motor had potential wont ever be a 50 mph + but 45mph should be within its grasp. In brave enough to chop on the motor if I can get more out of it. It's paid for so I ain't messed up about it !

[HGipson]

I used a GPS and IPhone and both showed between 38-40 mph two of us riding. One on back seat and other on front deck trying to keep it from porpoising. Epic failure attempt!

[phillnjack]

i do know about porpoising, its a real pain, but maybe a different prop will get you over that a bit.

being on tiller will also make it porpiose as its not letting back get up and go.
the jack plate idea might just help you out a bit.
do you know of anyone else with same type of boat and using same engine getting more speed ?

you realy do need a rev counter to see what your getting, and have you asked dealer for the engine if its
limited on the computer to certain rev's ?
it might be a limited engine due to being new, this i dont know but i do know that some mercury engines in the uk are limited on the revs till they have done about 50 hours !!!!!!!!!!!


you realy do need a rev counter because by the gear ratio and prop size your using ,you are already over revving
the engine by about 200rpms and not in the power band.
now if this is the case you need to go up a bit on the pitch and try a 21 pitch to get the revs down a bit.
it also shows this with zero slip !!!!!!!!!!

untill you know what the engine is realy revving at you will not get it right.

didnt the engine come with a rev counter from new ?

the bigger prop wont help with the porpoising but will give more speed, the prop needs to have a bit more staern lift
i would think to help the bouncy stuff settle out a bit.
But again you need that rev counter big time to make sure its going right.

a 40mph bouncing boat will feel faster than a 45mph smooth running boat,so you realy need the rev counter.

i myself have a 60hp 2 stroke and wanbt to hit the 50mph barrier, but mine old school 2 stroke and a 13ft tri-hull dory.
i have hit 45mph with a 19 pitch sst ,but had bad porpoising when using a smaller prop that only topped out at 38mph.
the different types of prop can make such a big handling difference as well.

i would imagine a ron hill phone call will get you sorted out and in the right ball park for what you want.

Just remember the e-tecs are slower than old school 2 strokes,just so much cleaner and cheaper to run.


i would love to get a 2012 e-tec 60hp

phill

[omcstratos]

HG,

I have helped setup the same exact boat with a Merc 40 3cyl 5.5in CMC jackplate. I also had that terrible porposing. I don't know what rpms the motor was at but it would top out at 38mph with one man in the back driving and one man in the front trying to hold down on the bouncing. We used one of Ron's thru-hub 18pitch cleavers. I think it is just the design of the boat. It first came with a honda 25 and a beat up aluminum prop and it bounced too.

When we would plane off with the mercury, we would keep it trimmed all the way down until it stopped accelerating, I would say the motor hit no more than 4500rpms. Once there we would bump up the trim even the slightest bit and you could hear the rpms pick up instantly, but so did the bouncing. I might would suggest a chopper style prop. I think the prop on ours now is trying to lift the boat out of the water but can't hold it out, resulting in the uncontrollable bouncing.

50hptiller has a youtube video of a tohatsu running pretty quick. Read his comments in his video where he talks about running a chopper. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-ROGGu-zw4

[HGipson]

Is the chopper prop a bow lifter high rake ? One I've got now is a bow lifter BRP Raker and its horrible for my application. Kinda sucks since it was almost $600 and its brand new. May try and sell it to buy another hate to have a $$$ paperweight

[chris3298]

Put a tach on the motor you'll be surprised on what you're actually running and what you think you're running as far as rpms. I would work with the setup of that boat and motor, all these guys here will tell ya they have spent hours and hours on the water testing to get every mph out of there boat. I say play with setup and learn from your current boat, learn all you can then when you feel you have gone as far as you can then try a different boat. I did this with a 14 carolina skiff and a 50 tohatsu, it was a great learning experience but at the same time depressing because i wasn't happy with it but I learned a lot about hooks and rockers from that boat. I learned if that bottom isn't perfectly straight it will bounce.

Power-tech props will let you buy a prop and if you're not happy with it you can return it for another prop now you can't modify it in anyway now, they have to be able to resell it.

[omcstratos]

Put a tach on the motor you'll be surprised on what you're actually running and what you think you're running as far as rpms. I would work with the setup of that boat and motor, all these guys here will tell ya they have spent hours and hours on the water testing to get every mph out of there boat. I say play with setup and learn from your current boat, learn all you can then when you feel you have gone as far as you can then try a different boat. I did this with a 14 carolina skiff and a 50 tohatsu, it was a great learning experience but at the same time depressing because i wasn't happy with it but I learned a lot about hooks and rockers from that boat. I learned if that bottom isn't perfectly straight it will bounce.

Power-tech props will let you buy a prop and if you're not happy with it you can return it for another prop now you can't modify it in anyway now, they have to be able to resell it.

Agreed. One question, does power-tech offer higher than a 17 pitch prop for that class motor. The scb style prop is a good fast jonboat prop.

[HGipson]

I haven't checked on the power tech props yet. Looking for a Yamaha style semi cleaver or drag to try and see what happens. Haven't tried a chopper prop either. Figured I needed something with a little more stern lift and maybe a smaller
Diameter for faster spin up but I don't know if such a wheel exists.

[chris3298]

I'm not sure if they do but you can take it to someone and have the pitch changed but I was told the pitch would only be changed at the tips of the blades, to truly change the pitch the blades would have to be cut off then rewelded back on to give you that true pitch, I am going by only what i have heard.

[HGipson]

Man I'd hate to take a brand new cast prop and cut the blades of and somebody re-weld em!! I've got a Miller TIG but I'd be afraid to try that! Figure a Yamaha style semi cleaver would keep my stern lifted and reduce the bounce while I trimmed but I'm a newbie and haven't tried but bow lifters

[chris3298]

Put a straight edge on the bottom your boat and you can see if you have any hooks and rockers instead of pouring money into props

[phillnjack]

if you hqave a tog welder you could make an awsome jack plate for your boat.
Plus if the BRP racker prop could be changed by a good prop man to get you more pitch and less diameter easy.
I have a post going about the props being cut down etc and have heard about a few who have had success with it.
I know a few people with rakers and they love em, many say they are pretty fast props and get the boats realy
moving once spinning.
If you are hitting 40mph with an 18 inch pitch then the engine is doing good and must be over revving.
it has toi be around 6200 plus to get that speed from your gear ratio, so maybe a little tweak on the prop by one of the prop men could make it a touch quicker as well.

i think like chris3298 says, you need to look under the boat and check a few things before getting another prop.
once you know exactly what your dealing with then check out ron hill's props and let him know what your boat
does and what you want from it.

many many people on here and other forums love his props and say they have worked realy good for them .



phill

[chris3298]

You really don't even need a tig welder to build a jack plate all it if is some angle aluminum and some bolts.

[phillnjack]

if you dont have a few butt welds inside the corners then alloy angle will break.
go look on the net and see how many high price jack plates and set backs have snapped !!!!!!
quite a few of the hefty priced bobs jack plates have been broken,some on the welds and some on the corners.
A few bits of weld would make it more rigid and definitely stronger and safer.

I always like a bit of over kill to be safe ha ha .

I myself need a jack plate,ill experiment with heavy steel angle at first (thats all ive got at present) then once
i have what i want, i would like it made in either stainless or alloy with a few strength welded bits inside it.
then i might see an extra 3 or 4 mph maybe ?
but if the holeshot suffers too much ill be back down again ha ha

phill

[MWhite]

if you dont have a few butt welds inside the corners then alloy angle will break.
go look on the net and see how many high price jack plates and set backs have snapped !!!!!!
quite a few of the hefty priced bobs jack plates have been broken,some on the welds and some on the corners.
A few bits of weld would make it more rigid and definitely stronger and safer.

I always like a bit of over kill to be safe ha ha .

I myself need a jack plate,ill experiment with heavy steel angle at first (thats all ive got at present) then once
i have what i want, i would like it made in either stainless or alloy with a few strength welded bits inside it.
then i might see an extra 3 or 4 mph maybe ?
but if the holeshot suffers too much ill be back down again ha ha

phill

Dude i have never seen a aluminum jack plate break, and i have had many of them over the years, u dont break them,,,, but go ahead and put u a heavy steel angle jack plate on there and see what happens, u can tell u dont know much,,,, your a spoon bill

[omcstratos]

if you dont have a few butt welds inside the corners then alloy angle will break.

phill

That jack plate must cost under $50 to break, I don't think that a 60 will ever break a 3/8in aluminum jack plate. I wouldn't touch it with a welder either. I'm not sure if aluminum can be heat treated like steel but when you go welding on something like that, you can mess with its strength.

[omcstratos]

And sorry to be nit picky, but by definition, I don't think you would call it a butt weld if you run a bead in the corner of a piece of angle.

[HGipson]

I've got a CMC fixed plate made out of 3/8 |_| shaped 6061-T6 aluminum. It's rated for up to 225 hp so it'll never break. And 6061 is readily weldable using 5356 3/32 or 1/8 TIG rods. But they don't need welded. Going to drop it and get a new CMC manual jack plate 5" with a BA-130 5" break away plate for logs and what not. Put my 60 on a friends 1648 War Eagle today and it drove like I stole it. No porpoise, get all the trim I wanted and it ran 4 mph faster as well as rev limiting. Need a 12.5 X 20 semi from Ron and Ill be ready to rock!! Thanks for the help!

[phillnjack]

well if you a plate already why not just make it adjustable yourself or add a bit more setback to it with spacers !!!

what prop was you using on the war eagle 1648 and is the boat lighter than yours ?
was the total weight around the same as when testing your own boat ?

what revs did the limiter come in at ? thats a very big deal to know the revs.

by the way take no notice of the nobs who dont know about jack plates and breakages,they obviously dont understand
what an ebngine falling off the back of the boat is.
Or what metal fatigue is or cracked alloy looks like.


hope you get the prop your after, but ron will need to know your revs to get you the best prop !!!!!!!!




phill

[MWhite]

well if you a plate already why not just make it adjustable yourself or add a bit more setback to it with spacers !!!

what prop was you using on the war eagle 1648 and is the boat lighter than yours ?
was the total weight around the same as when testing your own boat ?

what revs did the limiter come in at ? thats a very big deal to know the revs.

by the way take no notice of the nobs who dont know about jack plates and breakages,they obviously dont understand
what an ebngine falling off the back of the boat is.
Or what metal fatigue is or cracked alloy looks like.


hope you get the prop your after, but ron will need to know your revs to get you the best prop !!!!!


phill

Theres no need to weld on a 3x4 aluminum angle for strength on a jack plate, theres no 40,60 r even a big motor going to break it period.

[chris3298]

I think mine is rated for a 150hp motor and have seen plenty of 150 motor bolted to it without a problem, only real concern is to put big enough washers on the inside so it won't pull through the transom but if you feel you need to add more wait to the transom and weigh that sucker down even more then go ahead but don't complain about why you're going so slow.

[phillnjack]

so does this mean that nobody on this thread has seen jack plates that have busted open ???????

well i know what ive seen and also seen secondhand advertised that need re-welds.

as for chris 3298 if you read again what i wrote ill only be using a very heavy steel jack plate for testing.

im not gonna spend a fortune on buying a jackplate to find its not gonna make much difference to how i use the boat.

but i will test without a plate then test with one, there is definitely no way a plate will pull away as fast, so i do
expect to lose a bit on hole shot..

ill test and post results.

and ill dig out a few pics of broken plates for ya.


phill

[ima75man]

down here in the south,i've seen some big horse power on small jackplates rated for about 150 h/p. if a 260 merc with a 200 shot of nos, wont break a small jack plates,don't think a 70 h/p can hurt it.of coarse common sense say's u got to have a washer large enough to keep the bolt from pulling thru the transom. anything is possible and someone can tear up anything.

[HGipson]

The CMC plates are all aluminum 6061 extrusions. No welds anywhere on it to stress corrosion crack or break. But I'm sure there are a few others that are welded. Just depends on who welded it ! I've got a fixed CMC jack plate and it can be had brand new for 100 bones.

[omcstratos]

so does this mean that nobody on this thread has seen jack plates that have busted open ???????

well i know what ive seen and also seen secondhand advertised that need re-welds.

as for chris 3298 if you read again what i wrote ill only be using a very heavy steel jack plate for testing.

im not gonna spend a fortune on buying a jackplate to find its not gonna make much difference to how i use the boat.

but i will test without a plate then test with one, there is definitely no way a plate will pull away as fast, so i do
expect to lose a bit on hole shot..

ill test and post results.

and ill dig out a few pics of broken plates for ya.


phill

A jackplate usually helps with holeshot by placing the motor further behind the boat and giving it more leverage. And why try a heavy steel jackplate in place of an aluminum even for just a short period of time. You might as well throw some dumbells under your seat too.

[omcstratos]

I'd recommend making a steel jackplate out of some channel and I-beams instead of angle. You sure wouldn't want to lose that 60 omc over some weak materials.

[chris3298]

LOL you'll then have to raise the transom height as well so you don't have water coming in over the transom with the added weight.

[MWhite]

so does this mean that nobody on this thread has seen jack plates that have busted open ???????

well i know what ive seen and also seen secondhand advertised that need re-welds.

as for chris 3298 if you read again what i wrote ill only be using a very heavy steel jack plate for testing.

im not gonna spend a fortune on buying a jackplate to find its not gonna make much difference to how i use the boat.

but i will test without a plate then test with one, there is definitely no way a plate will pull away as fast, so i do
expect to lose a bit on hole shot..

ill test and post results.

and ill dig out a few pics of broken plates for ya.


phill

U going to use a heavey steel jackplate to test with instead of a aluminum one,, i dont understand that,,,,, u might as well have a dump truck full of dirt poured in it too, to keep it from bouncing.

[phillnjack]

to MWhite
I realy do not know if you are a mentaly disabled person or someone who has special needs or is someone who
is only allowed out when holding the hand of an adult of a responsible carer.
I also do not know if you are merely a child using daddy's pc and drinking his home brewed moonshine.
But to keep making the snide remarks on here is not realy fitting for someone of your ilk.
i do hope you are an adult that is a "real dimwit" and not just a child who has no manners.
if this offends anyone else then i am truely sorry but it was only inteded for the person who's name was at the top.

What i propose to do is to make a steel angle fixed position jackplate, the weight would be around 25 to 30 pounds.
that is around half the weight of an hydraulic jackplate and about twice that of a stainless fixed one.

i am not going to waste = $250 on a jack plate and maybe find it dont work on my boat.(yes expensive in uk)
.................................................. .................................................. .........
Nobody on here has seen cracked and broken jack plates ??
i find that very strange,but there ya go. you aint seen them and therefore they dont exist.
I understand that, each to his own views.
.................................................. ..............................................
yesterday i took out my 13ft boat with a evinrude 60hp on it, the gear ratio of my engine is 2.42 to 1.
I used garmin gps and here is a few speed results with rpm's. all tests done within 1 hour.

13 1/4 x19 stainless sst prop (prop made 1972 factory race spec at the time) 5700 rpm =38.1 mph (slip 10.47%)

13 3/4x23 omc stainless silver streak semi-cleaver 5400rpm = 39.8 mph (terrible pull away, and 18.5 % slip)

12 3/4x23 omc alloy 5500 rpm 36.1 mph (total crap pull away and 27.3 slip)
the engine is up as far as original bolts holes will allow, this causes poor running for omc alloy as its too high
and not high enough for the silver streak to work good.
but it shows the omc sst prop is working good with just 10.4% slip, anything between 6 and 10 is normal slip if
boat running good.
all speeds done with engine running very good, pump gas and 50-1 oil ratio.quicksilver outboard 2 stroke oil.
Temp of river around 58 degree f, Air temp around 70 degree f.
Engine temp staying around 60,c at idle and 45,c at wot.
weight of boat is around 600 pounds inc fuel,plus 250 for engine and me 200 so around the 1,000 pound mark when
testing the 19 pitch sst and the 23 silver streak.
then with another 200 pound person on board to test the omc alloy 23 pitch..
this testing was with a garmin hand held gps 12 .

Now if i put on a jackplate and take the engine up 5 inches and get zero slip with the silver streak 23 at 6000rpms
(thats another 600 rpm's due to raise of engine)i could get to a maximum of 54.22, this ofcourse could never
possibly happen, but with a slip of around 5% maybe looking at a possible 51.5 mph maximum top end 6,000rpm.
this is ofcourse all theory and hope,not much chance though.

phill

[phillnjack]

omcstratos
i see you made a comment stating
"A jackplate usually helps with holeshot"
now what idiot told you that ? no jackplate is ever going to give a better holeshot than an engine down where it was designed to be.

even the best jackplate manufacturers in the world would never say such a thing.
each maker says..down for holeshot to get away fast then raise once on the plane.

so where did you get the jack plate for holeshot from ?

i realy am beginning to think im talking to piss takers here,as some of the comments are just plain crazy and so untrue.

phill

[chris3298]

Sad Sad, go to youtube and type in srg boat racing and you can see Mr White run his boat and he's no slouch, he knows what he 's talking about, I have seen that boat of his run in person and man it's freaking fast.

[ima75man]

omcstratos
i see you made a comment stating
"A jackplate usually helps with holeshot"
now what idiot told you that ? no jackplate is ever going to give a better holeshot than an engine down where it was designed to be.

even the best jackplate manufacturers in the world would never say such a thing.
each maker says..down for holeshot to get away fast then raise once on the plane.

so where did you get the jack plate for holeshot from ?

i realy am beginning to think im talking to piss takers here,as some of the comments are just plain crazy and so untrue.

phill

i don't know anyone that would led you down the wrong path. u can buy a new jackplate for $135.00 from vance mfg. as far as mike white he dont drink moonshine,but he does drive the church bus on sunday morning.if u want to be a racer come to the south. people will treat u like family. put up some video of your boat running,and i'm sure some one can help u fix the problem u having.

[MWhite]

to MWhite
I realy do not know if you are a mentaly disabled person or someone who has special needs or is someone who
is only allowed out when holding the hand of an adult of a responsible carer.
I also do not know if you are merely a child using daddy's pc and drinking his home brewed moonshine.
But to keep making the snide remarks on here is not realy fitting for someone of your ilk.
i do hope you are an adult that is a "real dimwit" and not just a child who has no manners.
if this offends anyone else then i am truely sorry but it was only inteded for the person who's name was at the top.

What i propose to do is to make a steel angle fixed position jackplate, the weight would be around 25 to 30 pounds.
that is around half the weight of an hydraulic jackplate and about twice that of a stainless fixed one.

i am not going to waste = $250 on a jack plate and maybe find it dont work on my boat.(yes expensive in uk)
.................................................. .................................................. .........
Nobody on here has seen cracked and broken jack plates ??
i find that very strange,but there ya go. you aint seen them and therefore they dont exist.
I understand that, each to his own views.
.................................................. ..............................................
yesterday i took out my 13ft boat with a evinrude 60hp on it, the gear ratio of my engine is 2.42 to 1.
I used garmin gps and here is a few speed results with rpm's. all tests done within 1 hour.

13 1/4 x19 stainless sst prop (prop made 1972 factory race spec at the time) 5700 rpm =38.1 mph (slip 10.47%)

13 3/4x23 omc stainless silver streak semi-cleaver 5400rpm = 39.8 mph (terrible pull away, and 18.5 % slip)

12 3/4x23 omc alloy 5500 rpm 36.1 mph (total crap pull away and 27.3 slip)
the engine is up as far as original bolts holes will allow, this causes poor running for omc alloy as its too high
and not high enough for the silver streak to work good.
but it shows the omc sst prop is working good with just 10.4% slip, anything between 6 and 10 is normal slip if
boat running good.
all speeds done with engine running very good, pump gas and 50-1 oil ratio.quicksilver outboard 2 stroke oil.
Temp of river around 58 degree f, Air temp around 70 degree f.
Engine temp staying around 60,c at idle and 45,c at wot.
weight of boat is around 600 pounds inc fuel,plus 250 for engine and me 200 so around the 1,000 pound mark when
testing the 19 pitch sst and the 23 silver streak.
then with another 200 pound person on board to test the omc alloy 23 pitch..
this testing was with a garmin hand held gps 12 .

Now if i put on a jackplate and take the engine up 5 inches and get zero slip with the silver streak 23 at 6000rpms
(thats another 600 rpm's due to raise of engine)i could get to a maximum of 54.22, this ofcourse could never
possibly happen, but with a slip of around 5% maybe looking at a possible 51.5 mph maximum top end 6,000rpm.
this is ofcourse all theory and hope,not much chance though.

phill

philln jack,,,, U a spoon bill or a scissor bill,, In case u dont know what that is,, it means your a idiot, and a dump a$$ and do not know nothin about what your talking about,, u lucky u where u at and not around here,,,,,i have forgot more about boat set up and jack plates, gear ratio than what u will ever know. Its very clear to me u have know knowledge of boats, motor set up,,props, jackplates, u name it, no one uses a steel jack plate,, but put it on there, u got a 13ft boat with a 60 evinrude and can only run 38mph, thats pitiful,id be embarrass to say that ,on here. Hasnt it acured to u y u so slow,, has it!!! hell i can pull shrimp trolls faster than that, I hope all people from england are not airheads like u are, and oh,, im not mentally ill are disabled, im a grown man and this is my computer,piss taker,,, but U come on down here to the U S and ill give u some LESSONS BOY and show u what boatand motor setup is about,,, and what fast is. U Got alot to learn.

[HankFrazier]

omcstratos
i see you made a comment stating
"A jackplate usually helps with holeshot"
now what idiot told you that ? no jackplate is ever going to give a better holeshot than an engine down where it was designed to be.

even the best jackplate manufacturers in the world would never say such a thing.
each maker says..down for holeshot to get away fast then raise once on the plane.

so where did you get the jack plate for holeshot from ?

i realy am beginning to think im talking to piss takers here,as some of the comments are just plain crazy and so untrue.

phill

You won't to go fast but you worried about wasting 250 dollars that's funny. I have props that I have spent a 1000 dollars working on and they are junk. going fast takes a lot of time testing and money. I have been racing for about 30 years and mikes been racing longer than me .

[MWhite]

You won't to go fast but you worried about wasting 250 dollars that's funny. I have props that I have spent a 1000 dollars working on and they are junk. going fast takes a lot of time testing and money. I have been racing for about 30 years and mikes been racing longer than me .

Hank this guy has got about as much common sense as a damn piss ant.

[HankFrazier]

Hank this guy has got about as much common sense as a damn piss ant.
he's trying to go fast but he's trying to do it with the wrong motor. theirs too many things working against him.gear ratio and weight are hard to over come. over the years I've seen a lot of people try to run 50hp omc's with little success with out going to a different gear case.

[HankFrazier]

he's trying to go fast but he's trying to do it with the wrong motor. theirs too many things working against him.gear ratio and weight are hard to over come. over the years I've seen a lot of people try to run 50hp omc's with little success with out going to a different gear case.

I guess it depends on what u think fast is to him its 45mph to us its 70 to 80 mph.

[MWhite]

he's trying to go fast but he's trying to do it with the wrong motor. theirs too many things working against him.gear ratio and weight are hard to over come. over the years I've seen a lot of people try to run 50hp omc's with little success with out going to a different gear case.

Yep i know it,, and i dont think hes figured that out yet, he can try to do anything he wonts but it wont improve with that gear ratio,, hes got lots to learn.

[fs5]

in all fairness ,i have seen a few pics of jack plates failing on the net,theres a few goodens on snf.but they involve big motors hitting big things at some pretty good speeds.
jack plates are easy to make like whats been posted on here already,i reckon if a jack plate is goin to fail its goin to its goin fail in the same way as if your motor was just bolted to the transom (my opinoin)....
as for jack plates aiding hole shot ,they do "but" you have to relieve your exhaust so it vents above the cav plate,its make a hell of a good sound to..
i've been smashin around in boats for 20 + years and i'm still learning new stuff to,thats what makes it fun.

[MWhite]

in all fairness ,i have seen a few pics of jack plates failing on the net,theres a few goodens on snf.but they involve big motors hitting big things at some pretty good speeds.
jack plates are easy to make like whats been posted on here already,i reckon if a jack plate is goin to fail its goin to its goin fail in the same way as if your motor was just bolted to the transom (my opinoin)....
as for jack plates aiding hole shot ,they do "but" you have to relieve your exhaust so it vents above the cav plate,its make a hell of a good sound to..
i've been smashin around in boats for 20 + years and i'm still learning new stuff to,thats what makes it fun.

Im still learning to fs5,and i have been doing this awhile my self, Ive never had are seen a jackplate break or come apart, and ive hit some stumps pretty hard thats knock the motor out of my hand and off the boat,,, r put the motor in the boat with me,,,,, but the jackplate was always there intact, and the motor might be tore up r damaged.

[omcstratos]

Here is the only example that ive seen of a broken jackplate. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ANnmOAB8js
As for a 40 or 60 or even a 150 breaking a jackplate, I'll believe it when I see it.

And for the jackplate aiding in holeshot, I was referring to the motor still being submerged fully on the jackplate. Comparing apples to apples, a motor mounted on the transom with a submerged prop will have worse holeshot than a motor submerged prop with a 6in setback jackplate. It is hard to compare the holeshot between a prop that surfaces and one that only pushes water.

[phillnjack]

well here is another one and a few more if you read the posts.
notice the plates is ripped and not smaashed in as it would be if it hit something.
now the previous post showed a 350hp rated v8 jackplate, and what size was the engine ha ha ha

the link i give hear shows how the so called aircraft alloy is pure rubbish.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-EKuHCjU4o&NR=1&feature=endscreen.

and no setback will be a normal engine set up direct on the transom with a submerged prop, that just aint gonna happen.
you dont seem to realise where the centre of gravity has been changed with a setback or jack.
setbacks when doing a holeshot send a prop way down deep, a lot further down than normal.
there is no chance of a say 5 inch setback beating a normal transom for pull away.
if they were quick out the hole dont you think drag boats would be using them ?

anyway, enjoy another video of a broken jack plate thats made in the USA that just dont happen at all.
(but realy its made in china with a Made in the USA sticker like most stuff nowdays).


phill

[phillnjack]

Mwhite go and edit your post
you call me an idiot yet you cannot even spell a 2 letter word like NO.

ask cousin Billy bob for some help .

and there was me thinking they were just acting stupid on jerry springer, you lot realy are funny aint ya.


phill

[MWhite]

well here is another one and a few more if you read the posts.
notice the plates is ripped and not smaashed in as it would be if it hit something.
now the previous post showed a 350hp rated v8 jackplate, and what size was the engine ha ha ha

the link i give hear shows how the so called aircraft alloy is pure rubbish.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-EKuHCjU4o&NR=1&feature=endscreen.

and no setback will be a normal engine set up direct on the transom with a submerged prop, that just aint gonna happen.
you dont seem to realise where the centre of gravity has been changed with a setback or jack.
setbacks when doing a holeshot send a prop way down deep, a lot further down than normal.
there is no chance of a say 5 inch setback beating a normal transom for pull away.
if they were quick out the hole dont you think drag boats would be using them ?

anyway, enjoy another video of a broken jack plate thats made in the USA that just dont happen at all.
(but realy its made in china with a Made in the USA sticker like most stuff nowdays).


phill

All this mumble jumble stuff u been saying dont make a bit of sense,,u dont know what u even mean on here,,,,,, u say theres no chance of a 5in set back beating a motor thats bolted strait to the transom for taking off, thats shows right there u dont know what your talking about,,,,,I've tryed it both ways,,, i got 5in set back in mind and ill bust your A$$ any day of the week with any setup u can come up with, u better get a hold of billy bob your self,,,, are find u someone that can help u,, cause u need it. STUPID, im done argueing with u about this, do what u wont. Oh build u a very heavy steel jackplate that takes 3 people to put it on and see where it gets u.

[ima75man]

well here is another one and a few more if you read the posts.
notice the plates is ripped and not smaashed in as it would be if it hit something.
now the previous post showed a 350hp rated v8 jackplate, and what size was the engine ha ha ha

the link i give hear shows how the so called aircraft alloy is pure rubbish.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-EKuHCjU4o&NR=1&feature=endscreen.

and no setback will be a normal engine set up direct on the transom with a submerged prop, that just aint gonna happen.
you dont seem to realise where the centre of gravity has been changed with a setback or jack.
setbacks when doing a holeshot send a prop way down deep, a lot further down than normal.
there is no chance of a say 5 inch setback beating a normal transom for pull away.
if they were quick out the hole dont you think drag boats would be using them ?

anyway, enjoy another video of a broken jack plate thats made in the USA that just dont happen at all.
(but realy its made in china with a Made in the USA sticker like most stuff nowdays).


phill
well the usa is just a country like yours, nothing is perfect not the people or the factory that make products, as americans we understand. we are simple folks living live with what freedom we have left. we adapt well to change,you proved that some one can break a jack plate big deal. now go and built the better mouse trap,i'm sure folks want to see the perfect jack plate, if it passes our inspection gets ready to sell thousands of them, if it fails and breaks u might be a red neck......

[HGipson]

Well as for my SlowTec 60, I'm putting the motor on a 1648 War Eagle actually a little lighter than my last boat, would a CMC Manual Jack plate say 4" or 5.5" be better. As of right now I'm running a bow lifter high rake prop. Wondering if my hole shot on that particular boat will be better or worse. Right now its mounted on the transom level cav plate with bottom and hole shot is fair so could be better.

[MWhite]

Well as for my SlowTec 60, I'm putting the motor on a 1648 War Eagle actually a little lighter than my last boat, would a CMC Manual Jack plate say 4" or 5.5" be better. As of right now I'm running a bow lifter high rake prop. Wondering if my hole shot on that particular boat will be better or worse. Right now its mounted on the transom level cav plate with bottom and hole shot is fair so could be better.

yes,, 4.5 to 5 works good. the rule of thum is for every 2inch of set back u can rise motor 1inch,,,, get that cav plate above bottom of boat, your hole shot should improve, depending on prop. do some testing with different props and heights,,,, with the gear ratio u got u going to have to get a bigger diameter prop or get some more pitch to make up for that, If your prop dia is ok,,,, then play with pitch.

[HGipson]

Didn't know that I appreciate it! I'm going to get the 5.5" if I can break my kids piggy bank open to pay for it! Lol. I've got a 13.75 X 18 now. 2.67 gear ratio which sucks but that's about all I can do. Just wanting 5-6 more mph out of it an Ill be done. I'm wanting to try out a smaller diameter higher pitch if I can find one. Figured it would spin up faster and get out if the hole then let it eat

[Xpress2830]

FYI if you are thinkin about another boat the EDGE are awesome and fast. With the right setup the 60 Etec should push a 556 EDGE close to 50MPH...I have an Xpress 1546 VJ semi V with a moded 25-3 cylinder Yammy. I had to put trim tabs on boat. I have it trimmed all the way out and cav plate is 1.5" above boat. Runnin a 12 pitch Power Tech SRA3 36MPH @ 6000 RPM. This is just me and bass fishin gear.Note I think you need to get a Tiny Tach before you mess with your prop.Start with setting your cavitaion plate 1.25" above bottom of boat. Trim motor out your trailing edge of cav plate should be approx 1/4" higher than leading edge. If it hops too bad you will need trim tabs. Good luck...

[HGipson]

Put this SlowTec on a new boat and it ran perfect. 1648 War Eagle and it doesn't hop from negative trim all the way till its shooting water up in the air. Me and a buddy got 42 out of it this wkd. She was hitting the limiter so I can go up about 2-3" pitch and still be within my power range. All I'm wanting is about 45 and ill be done!

[phillnjack]

you realy need to get a rev counter on the engine.
they make everything so much easier to work out and youl always be using it trust me.
if your getting good holeshot then dont go down in diameter, just up the pitch.
i think you might get away with 21 pitch so look around for 13x21 or 13.5x21 and the rakers are supposed to be
very good for top end speeds.
the prop you have will sell for good money so its just a few bucks more to get what you want.
if you can findsomeone to let you try their prop first would be great, then just look around for a good secondhand deal.
no point in new unless your filthy rich, you can have 2 realy good used props or 1 new ???
also maybe 22 or 23 for just out on your own going crazy with the boat ha ha

but do get a rev counter for the e-tec, it also tells many other things as im pretty sure its a multi guage for those.

have fun


phill

[HGipson]

I'm going to get a Tiny Tach and out in it. Don't have a spot for the big multiple read out gauge. Never used a tiny tach but sure it won't be too terrible to figure out. I'm getting a pretty good hole shot not the best but you've got to hold on to the side or it'll slide you over the back. As soon as it breaks over plane though its gone! I'm really surprised what this motor does with 0 modifications from the factory. Might not be as fast as a ported blue printed balanced racing engine but I've never drove a factory motor that ran like this one dies now. Only other question I've got for the gurus is a CMC Manual Jack Plate. I've heard some guys say they gained speed other guys say their boats starting porpoising horribly. What would cause this and would it work on this 1648 War eagle? Boat runs perfect with motor mounted directly to the transom. Just thought about getting another prop and JP to gain a couple more mph then ill be happy !

[HGipson]

Used a buddies laser tachometer this wkd and it was hard to tell exactly with the rough water but I did see over 6000 rpm several times. Sounded like it was hitting the limiter with 3 of us in there

[phillnjack]

dont waste your money on a tiny tacho, they aint much good and will fail big time.

nothing stopping you having a full size tacho in a little pod by the transom to watch it .
you can always incorporate a cup holder right next to the little box and have it so can simply take it out the boat if you want to.
only need a little plug on it to make it all work nice.
the tiny tach is made for go carts who rev a lot higher,

you can always ask a dealer about a blue tooth tacho connection for the mobile phone ????
you must be able to get a read out direct from the computer on the engine as thats what they do at the workshops.
you can get them for automobiles cant see why not for late outboard engines like yours.
you could then simply watch the accurate revs on the mobile phone through a bluetooth connection.
they only cost about $10-$15 for auto ones.

i think the etec and 42 mph is very good ,plus good fuel economy and clean engine as well.
to get more top end your gonna start losing the pull away / holeshot..i think i would be happy where it
is and know the engine is not under pressure from bigger pitch especially if your going out with 3 guys onboard.

you might lose 1 or 2 miles per hour by having a third person with your prop now,but with bigger prop youl lose that with each guy so probably end up slower.
42mph aint hanging around, its plenty fast enough for a boat with 3 fisherman in it.

wish mine was that quick and ive got the 3 cylinder 60hp old school 2 stroke, keeps the oil companies happy ha ha


phill

[LittleCharger]

dont waste your money on a tiny tacho, they aint much good and will fail big time.


I like my tiny tacs, run them on the race boats, find them accurate and never had a problem with them over the years. Like the high recall feature as well.

Just my thoughts

[phillnjack]

your the first person ive come across who says a good thing about them on outboard engines.

i was going to get one for a suzki 30hp i have, my friend has had 3 of them all rubbish on the outboards yet great for rc engines revving over 20,000 etc.
he also uses the same tacs on his go cart with a single cylinder and gets good results.

but the same tacs when he puts them on outboards are all over the place.

when on just a 4hp merc the range went from 1500 to 5,000 and then all over the place at about 3/4 throttle.

ive heard the same from about 6 other people i know who have them.

maybe they have all come from a bad batch !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

if they work then it would good to use one and stick it opn the front of the hood to see easy if using a tiller steer.


p.s
like the look of that 70 in the avater,did you cut it down yourself ?

phill

[LittleCharger]

When using the tiny tach on two cylinders you need to wrap the sensor wire around both spark plug wires (don't know why). On the three plus cylinder motors you only have to wrap it around one of the plug wires.

Nope didn't cut the mid, the engine is a 56er on a short shaft stinger mid and nitro gear case. A common set up here for racing.

[phillnjack]

when you say 56er what year would it be ?

[LittleCharger]

Have both an 86 and a 91, on the 91 had to swap out the multi spline crank for the four spline crank to work with nitro case

[HGipson]

Guess its possible but has anyone ever switched out the gears from the older Evinrude V4 casing and put them in an Etec 40,50,60? Think they're a little faster gear ratio. I'm going to get one if my buddies to ride with me that's a Evinrude tech to check the rpm. Hopefully I can bump up my pitch to a 22. Got the 18 now with large cup and ill be decreasing diameter an inch so that should put me right in the 22-23 range. Don't know if the decrease in diameter is going to help but all that I've read about this stuff since I'm sort of a newbe to the performance side is there's an endless array of options when it comes to props. So hopefully ill get this 60 figured out. Not going to be racing much or any at all except to a duck hole or two!! One thing I have proven thus far is that 1-1.5 mph can be gained just by removing the cowling on my 60 and throttle response is a little faster. So these engines could benefit from increased air intake like any other engine that breathes air! Good news

[ima75man]

just a thought, made adapter plate and find a nitro lower unit with 1.87 gears ratio wouldn't be hard to make.