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View Full Version : Nose cone and pipework on the gearbox when using low water pick up



pdt
12-13-2013, 12:21 PM
Hi folks
ok so lets imagine ive already attached a nosecone with a low water pick-up to my gearbox on a evinrude triple.

Now I presume I drill through the side of the gearbox at the height of the waterpump housing just under the stainless plate and thread this hole and make this
go right through into the lower housing of the waterpump?
I might be very wrong about that place as never delved into this before. ?

Now I have been told , and it seems logical to cover up or fill in the the normal side water intake holes on the side of the gearcase as these would
be defunt due to the low water pick-up on the bottom of the nose cone and would just draw in air and make it all just not work.

What I also want to know is.
due I have to fill in the hole from the water pump that was originally going down to the inlets, due to this trapping water and could freeze during winter months ?
or do I put a threaded plug in one of the lower holes for the release of the water ?

Also what about the other small hole on the side of gearbox that vents out water when I use the muffs on the hose etc, do I plug this as well ?

To many of you this is probably something you already know and is obvious as you have seen and used nose cones and water pick ups etc.
But this is unknown territory for people here in the uk ,as to see a added cone is something that just don't happen over here.
I have never ever seen one in the flesh , and I have seen thousands of outboards including many racing set ups, and worked on a good few as well.

so a full detailed piece of what actually needs to be done when fitting wouldn't be a bad idea.

any info on this would be great,

.

Per
12-14-2013, 03:27 PM
55892
Hi folks
ok so lets imagine ive already attached a nosecone with a low water pick-up to my gearbox on a evinrude triple.

Now I presume I drill through the side of the gearbox at the height of the waterpump housing just under the stainless plate and thread this hole and make this
go right through into the lower housing of the waterpump?
I might be very wrong about that place as never delved into this before. ?

See picture for a good place to drill, remove water pump and measure TWICE or even more times...

Now I have been told , and it seems logical to cover up or fill in the the normal side water intake holes on the side of the gearcase as these would
be defunt due to the low water pick-up on the bottom of the nose cone and would just draw in air and make it all just not work.

They will not draw air but spill water, cover at least the 4 top ones, some people leave the lower holes on either side for drainage, some leave just one, I filled them all and just kept the original drain hole on the starboard side (time will tell if it is enough)

What I also want to know is.
due I have to fill in the hole from the water pump that was originally going down to the inlets, due to this trapping water and could freeze during winter months ?
or do I put a threaded plug in one of the lower holes for the release of the water ?

No

Also what about the other small hole on the side of gearbox that vents out water when I use the muffs on the hose etc, do I plug this as well ?

Not as far as I know...

To many of you this is probably something you already know and is obvious as you have seen and used nose cones and water pick ups etc.
But this is unknown territory for people here in the uk ,as to see a added cone is something that just don't happen over here.
I have never ever seen one in the flesh , and I have seen thousands of outboards including many racing set ups, and worked on a good few as well.

so a full detailed piece of what actually needs to be done when fitting wouldn't be a bad idea.

any info on this would be great,

.
I'm sure there are many ways to solve this but this is how I did mine.

I run separate water pickup but the drilling and filling part would be the same.
The gear case in the picture will get a nose cone (without water pickup) later during the winter that is why it looks like crap....

Remember to use a water pressure gauge!

pdt
12-14-2013, 05:31 PM
thanks per for the advice and the pic.

you said "just kept the original drain hole on the starboard side (time will tell if it is enough)"

what drain hole ? where is it ? to be honest ive not noticed one on mine and cant get to mine for a few days.
where is your low water pick now ?

.

Per
12-15-2013, 04:27 AM
This is the drain hole.
55895

I have a water pickup mounted at the transom.

pdt
12-15-2013, 05:54 AM
ill have to have a look on mine for that drain hole.
But im pretty sure I don't have one like that, maybe I am forgetting it ha ha .

just thinking about during winter ,any trapped water could cause a freeze crack etc. but if mine has this, then I would leave that open for sure.

ive started making a fibreglass cone, in the very early stages at the moment though ha ha .
Might try it with just the cone first, then add low water pick up if needed.
I am wondering how big the cavity needs to be that goes upto the pump to allow enough water.
the original water cavity in the lower unit from the side water vents is pretty big, its around 1 inch by 1.25 inches across, so pretty big void.
but obviously never under a forced pressure as would be with the nose type water inlets.
Maybe im just looking for a problem that will not exist..
.

Fastjeff57
12-15-2013, 06:10 AM
Photos such as this (seen here a while back) inspired me to build mine. Like a doofus I didn't make the bend in the copper tube wide enough to get the LU down without removing it! Doh!

Jeff

Per
12-15-2013, 02:07 PM
Nice work!
Does it work well?

pdt
12-15-2013, 04:51 PM
well I dont know about calling yourself a doofus, I reckon that's a bloody good bit of work and a very good idea. I love good old bodgeneering.

ok so you see something afterwards that needs to be improved upon if you need to do a impeller etc.
But if you look at any engine you can see something that can be and should be improved on, even on a £20,000 brand new v6 outboard engine today.


but this surely is not lower than the engines original pick up is it ? or is it ?

.

Fastjeff57
12-16-2013, 05:10 AM
The intake is not lower, but the spray coming off prop takes care of that. (Note that the intake is on the left side, and it has a RH prop.) I suspect the impeller is not needed at speed, but I'm not about to remove it and find out!

Jeff

PS: It would have been far more 'convenient' to have the intake on the other side of the LU, but...

pdt
12-16-2013, 09:13 AM
so is the other end going straight into the flush port (if it has a flush port screw).

would be dead easy to make either a new pipe with a bend or just put an elbow joint in and run another bit.
either way it does the job so its a winner .
definitely a way to run higher and still get water that's for sure, and is this a part from a black and decker workmate, or from a small outboard engine.
the part looks very familiar to me, just cant seem to remember where ive seen it.

.

Fastjeff57
12-16-2013, 12:36 PM
The "grille" was made from a couple of stainless forks I bought at the dollar store! Honest.

Jeff

pdt
12-16-2013, 01:05 PM
So it was a FORKING good idea !!!