2 cycle oils

[Seanp3]

What 2 cycle oils are you using. Are most of you using synthetic oils and have there been any tests that show it does a better job. Thanks for any input :)

[Pop990]

Lucas semi-synthetic gave us a couple hundred R's in our sst45. Bill

[Seanp3]

I just thought some might have some stories on this. My background is I have yet to race. Done a lot of boating & skiing since I was a skirt and have always used Merc 2 cyle oil. A friend of mine told me a story a couple years ago when the synthetics came out he tried it with a new snowmobile that he got and burned up the motor first time out. Its kind of stuck in the back of my mind since then. When I went to my first race at Oroville it seemed like everyone was using Amsoil. I guess it is pretty good stuff.

[Joe Silvestri 36-S]

I have been using Klotz TCW-3 Synthetic Outboard Lubricant in my Yamatos for about 6 years now. I mix the oil to the direction on the back of the container. The only problem I've had with the synthetic is when I did not follow the mixture specification on the back of the container. I mixed to much oil per gallon of gas and by the end of the season, the cylinders were glazed up in the motor not allowing the rings to seal properly, which caused a compression loss/horsepower loss. Remember, that synthetic oil is made to stick to the parts of the engine and if overmixed, or improperly mixed, it could hurt the performance of the engine. Also, I've found that the synthetics do not mix well with fogging oil, which is fine, because there is no need to fog an engine for storage when using synthetic.

The advantages I've found with synthetics are; the cylinder temperature is cooler and the cylinders have hardly any wear to them after a few years of racing the engine.

[Seanp3]

I have been using Klotz TCW-3 Synthetic Outboard Lubricant in my Yamatos for about 6 years now. I mix the oil to the direction on the back of the container. The only problem I've had with the synthetic is when I did not follow the mixture specification on the back of the container. I mixed to much oil per gallon of gas and by the end of the season, the cylinders were glazed up in the motor not allowing the rings to seal properly, which caused a compression loss/horsepower loss. Remember, that synthetic oil is made to stick to the parts of the engine and if overmixed, or improperly mixed, it could hurt the performance of the engine. Also, I've found that the synthetics do not mix well with fogging oil, which is fine, because there is no need to fog an engine for storage when using synthetic.

The advantages I've found with synthetics are; the cylinder temperature is cooler and the cylinders have hardly any wear to them after a few years of racing the engine.

Thanks John,

this the kind testimony I was looking for. Thanks for the reply

[Joe Silvestri 36-S]

No problem. If you have any other questions, and I can answer them, I'd be glad to.

[N-77 Two]

I think you should look into running the PowerMist Oil. Check it out at: www.powermist.com I think you will like it a lot.:)

[Seanp3]

Sorry Joe, didn't mean to butcher your name. And thanks N-77. Intersting info on Power Mist

Sean

[John (Taylor) Gabrowski]

Since I got introduced to this stuff way back around 1980, frieds of mine and I have been using only this in Stock, Mod and old classic Alky racing Anzanis and Quincys forgetting about caster ever since. This pure synthetic 2 stroke racing oil though un-available anymore to public sales was retailing for $11.00 a pint then. I have a private stock as some others do too. What made it so special for air cooled racing 2 stroke racing sled engines (the toughest oils are required here) was that; It did not burn, it dripped out of exhaust pipes instead. Left clean and burned clean. Did not lower fuel octane. Could be used with gasoline, with methanol, with gasoline and nitro, alternatively with methanol and nitro and with Gasoline & Methanol and Nitro in the same mix with extreme high loads percentages and none of its characteristics changed nor would it separate or force anything else to separate out in the multi-fuels mixes. Stuck to metal surfaces preventing thermal breakdoiwn staying liquid. (Ever see a crown burn but the skirt look like brand new from the oil's protection?) No hard varnishing. You did not need fogging or storage oils for longer periods of storage. Its something you never ever used to break in piston rings with, they would never seat would requiring disassembly and doing a clean out all over again.

Its a remarkable oil this way and was used wholly for snowmo sled racing, until outboard racers here managed to lay their hands on some. Anytime some NOS stock pops out for sale, its jumped on. The last person making a jump at 2 pallets full 4X4X4 feet each square came from the interior of British Columbia and disappeared with both of them in his 3/4 ton Chevy truck! I have about 150 cans left. That is why they are no longer making it anymore. It Was Too Good!? :)

There are so many good products out there today and equally good and some better but we are talking years later than this one. Something like the Avro Aero delta wing fighter interceptor aircraft that were light years ahead of the competition kind of situation. :)

[Seanp3]

Well, it seems there are a lot of synthetic brands and these are most used for racing for protection and engine longevity. Thanks for those who posted
;) :)

[TreyStJohn]

We use Maxima 927 in all our pre-mix (can't be used in injector systems) engines (outboard, PWC, Motocross). We have chosen this oil for several reasons 1) Wear has always been less than any same ratio synthetics or petroleums at tear down. 2) Flash temp is 480 compared to 240-290 with synthetics, meaning the oil will not begin to burn until 480 degrees 3) Has very good anti-corrosion additives for marine use as other castor based oils don't seem to be good in this area. 4) Is biodegradeable, yes tree huggers will thank you 5) Smells ooh so much better than anything else.

Last year in the 1liter modified inboard hydro class running a Yamaha GPR1200based engine turning 7500-8,200 rpm's, we ran 24:1 927 mix w/C16 all year with no teardowns. At the end of the season, we tore the engine down and the crankshaft had virtually no wear. We cleaned it up and put it back together with new pistons and sold the motor to our competition who shelved it so no one else would run it...he did win national high points this year.

For more info www.maximausa.com

Just my 2 cents

Trey

[Mark75H]

The flash point for Klotz's synthetic is 460º

[h2ojunkie]

any one have any input on powermist fuels and oils ?

[David Weaver]

This is great stuff!! 3 years of racing on my VRP 250 (Hydro) and not one stuck piston. It is easy to clean, because the castor has been de-gummed.

[smittythewelder]

Joe, what's this about engines running synthetic oils not needing storage-seal treatment for the winter. I have been fogging all my fishing motors, chainsaws, weedeaters, and anything else that is stored in an unheated shed. But I've never used synthetics. Maybe you can teach an old dog a new trick. Is there a website with more info on this?

[Seanp3]

Joe, what's this about engines running synthetic oils not needing storage-seal treatment for the winter. I have been fogging all my fishing motors, chainsaws, weedeaters, and anything else that is stored in an unheated shed. But I've never used synthetics. Maybe you can teach an old dog a new trick. Is there a website with more info on this?


Some info I've gotten from the websites indicate if they're good for storage. Klotz R-50 and some others that I've read indicate they are

http://klotzlube.com/tech/KL-102.pdf

[Seanp3]

Anyone in or around the Seattle area know of any Klotz dealers? Central Washington would even be closer for me. I'd like to avoid the shipping if I could

[Seanp3]

The flash point for Klotz's synthetic is 460º


Sam, sounds like you use Klotz. On their site they recommend 20:1 to 32:1 for 2 stoke gas mix. Most guys I've talked to say they use 24:1. I'll be using it with a Yamato 80. What would you recommend?

[Joe Silvestri 36-S]

Smitty,
The container of Klotz oil says right on it, that you do not need to use fogging oils if using the product. Remember, synthetics have adhesion properties, which means the oil sticks to the parts, which is why you do not need fogging oils. If you are using conventional oils, you would want to use fogging oils before putting your motors away for the winter. Conventional oils do not stick to the parts of the engine.

Sean,
I order my Klotz right from the manufactorer as there is no dealer close to me. I usually order two gallons at a time to make the shipping worth while. This will last me two or more seasons, depending on how many classes I race that season.

[mercguy]

Smitty,
The container of Klotz oil says right on it, that you do not need to use fogging oils if using the product. Remember, synthetics have adhesion properties, which means the oil sticks to the parts, which is why you do not need fogging oils. If you are using conventional oils, you would want to use fogging oils before putting your motors away for the winter. Conventional oils do not stick to the parts of the engine.

Sean,
I order my Klotz right from the manufactorer as there is no dealer close to me. I usually order two gallons at a time to make the shipping worth while. This will last me two or more seasons, depending on how many classes I race that season.

2gal's will last you 2 seasons???? Joe, you need to race more!!!!!!:D :D

2gal's will only last me about 5-6 races!!!! Let's see, I go through about 10gal's of gas per race weekend.......man, I gotta cut back!

[Joe Silvestri 36-S]

Daren,

I almost always race two classes per day and sometimes three. It depends if I feel like racing 20 on that particular day. Anymore than that is to much for me. I used to be like you but not anymore. :D I'm getting to old for that. :D :D :D :D :D

[mercguy]

Daren,

I almost always race two classes per day and sometimes three. It depends if I feel like racing 20 on that particular day. Anymore than that is to much for me. I used to be like you but not anymore. :D I'm getting to old for that. :D :D :D :D :D


I hear ya Joe!!!!!

[Seanp3]

Daren,

I almost always race two classes per day and sometimes three. It depends if I feel like racing 20 on that particular day. Anymore than that is to much for me. I used to be like you but not anymore. :D I'm getting to old for that. :D :D


Joe, thanks for the info on Klotz. I like what I read about it.

Now, I got 14 yrs on ya and just getting started. You can't let an old fart like me pass you up :D :D

Actually, I would have loved to race when I was younger. Just couldn't afford it then. It wasn't until I picked up Daren's boat until the bug bit real hard. So, we'll see what this year holds

[corin_huke]

I think you should look into running the PowerMist Oil. Check it out at: www.powermist.com I think you will like it a lot.:)

Does anyone have any more contact details for PowerMist (or a PowerMist stockist) as I know a couple of guys who have tried to get in contact with PowerMist to talk about their products, but have had no reply whatsoever

Many years ago I thought that Ron Shurilla had some 'connection' to PowerMist - is this still the case? If so, may be someone has contact details for Ron

Thanks in advance