Nosecone

[hupiveneilija]

Thought i show you selfmade nose on the way. Fillings made, next little sanding.

[filthy phill]

this could be interesting.
what have you used for the filler mixture ?
have you tack welded any little bit of metal onto the case to get the filler to grip onto ?

keep the pics coming on this one

[LittleCharger]

We have typically found that the stock nitro case handled better then an SST60 case on a v bottom, sometimes faster also depending on where the boat ran trim wise.

Make sure you get the cone shape right so it continues to feed the water pick ups.

Cheers,

[filthy phill]

this gearcase is supposed to be the bigfoot 2.42 20 inch mid

but I did not think the big gearcase had 4 water intakes ?
mine is the big one and only has 3 inlets per side

[hupiveneilija]

Yes its a bigfoot. I made that lower hole because i try to go without transom pickup. Will see if i can jack the motor high enough.

[hupiveneilija]

After one hour work😊

[DeanFHobart]

Nice work.

[hupiveneilija]

Thanks👍. Only paint missing.

[hupiveneilija]

Also going to make a ring between case and prop to cover the gap.

[filthy phill]

Looking very good. shape looks nice and no welding been needed !!!
hope this works out good for you. is this a very tough filler to sand down ?

for the prop there was a special omc thrust washer made for the silverstreak/srx props a long time ago that closed the gap a little bit and did not let
exhaust flare out too much over the blades.
I have a 13 3/4x 23 prop the same as that one. but I just have the thrust washer same as you.

[hupiveneilija]

When I covered that gap with my black "tincan ring" it was a huge benefit for takeoff. I have also those big holes above A/V plate helping too. Without those mods it was kind of a struggle to get on plane, especially with 2 person.

[Fastjeff57]

Because of excessive prop cavitation, right?

Jeff

[hupiveneilija]

Yep.

[filthy phill]

I got exactly the same problem with srx, terrible holeshot, takes ages to get on plane and no chance with 2 people in the boat.

have you seen some of the cups made for props that turn them into semi through hubs ?
I would like to have one of these made to see how the srx would then behave.

I have forgot who made them

[filthy phill]

here is the original special thrust washer that came with omc silver streak 13 3/4 x 23 .
I think someone on here sent me this pic or might have been on the cream and try forum.
never seen one in the flesh though, this were supposed to make the pull away good and not effect top end. ?
would not take much to make one of these up.

.

[Ron Hill]

DO YOU SELL THESE OR JUST KEEP THEM FOR YOURSELF? Nice pieces.

[filthy phill]

these are not mine ron, wish they were they are just pics ive managed to get from people on the internet etc.

dont see why they would be hard to make though, especially the thrust washer for the srx that would be very simple to make.
quick run up on a lathe to make the washer and then either drill it out or mill it out..

surprised hill marine dont make these, especially with your cleaver solid hubs.

if you had a spare ordinary thrust washer could simply add the ring to it, it can be fairly deep too as there is plenty of room to play with it.

if you have a drilled exhaust or a snout then no need for these..

The long hub/thrust washer with the slits is a very good idea, can let people have the choice with just the one prop.
.

[skeg]

Also surprised Hill marine does not make these:p

[Fastjeff57]

Not yet!

Jeff

[filthy phill]

Ha ha

dead right there

[LittleCharger]

We have one but don't run it much on our omcs

Some pics of back side and inside. Unfortunately the inside does not have a shoulder on the inside for our omc cleavers, relying on torquing the prop down in order for it not to shift any.

Not sure if Titus had them made or not, ours has his shops name on it.

6164361642

[filthy phill]

thats the name of the company I saw them on Titus.
the ones you have are for merc by the look of it, nice clear & good pics of them.
gives a good idea how to make them.

[LittleCharger]

thats the name of the company I saw them on Titus.
the ones you have are for merc by the look of it, nice clear & good pics of them.
gives a good idea how to make them.

Well you didn't see them there as they don't have a web site

[filthy phill]

No it was not a site of his, he posted them on a forum and we were talking about this type of thing.
he does go on a few sites.

[Ron Hill]

I talked to Jeff Titus at Reno, Nevada, three years ago, last January, he said he still had several "Slip On" hubs. He said, sales of SST 60 props had dropped way off.

I had Donny Spencer, at West Tech Machine make my "Slip on Hubs' for Nitro cases and V-6 cases. In the days that were, we'd make 25 at a time. Then, when the four blades came in, we stopped "Slotting" them fr the blades. I had six or more of these around here for many years.

This was a V-6 one. I ran one on every MOD VP I ever owned, and I owned 14 and one V-8 boat.

[filthy phill]

so these were just cast alloy cups then Ron.
how did the thrust stand up to being just alloy ?

[hupiveneilija]

I got this on my hands. Someone has done the mod to prop. Think its for a nitro. Diam.12 1/8.

edit; diam.11 1/2

[filthy phill]

Looks like a Winrace prop that has been messed around with.
is there any names on it .
and is that a added cup or blades been removed then welded back on ?

could look a lot nicer if cleaned up and polished what is the pitch ?

this would let you know where exactly the limiter is on your motor is its less than 22 pitch.

[hupiveneilija]

Might look but its not Winrace. if you look closely the barrel has been welded to small hub prop.

[Ron Hill]

so these were just cast alloy cups then Ron.
how did the thrust stand up to being just alloy ?

I would not trust just cast alloy. We always used 6061 T6 aluminum. Never broke or cracked one.

[filthy phill]

Sorry Ron
I meant to write billet and obviously wrote cast doh

is a billet alloy thrust washer going to be ok ? or would it be better to be stainless thrust washer then tig welded to a cup.
surely the cup can simply be cast alloy or thin stainless as its only being used to divert exhaust gases. water pressure there would not be much would it ?

and 6061 T6 is old hat in Europe nowdays, we use the 6082 T6 , Pretty much the same but a bit tougher. dont know what polishes up best though ?

[hupiveneilija]

A little update on this. Blowout ring done and in its place. Also only 1 water hole/side, give it a try. If it dont work then go back to the transom p/u.

[filthy phill]

The ring might work, although it is supposed to be attached to thrust washer, not the gearcase. but I cant see why it should not help.
I have seen plastic rings that clip in that do similar job, but only on small motor, this being screwed on it should be perfect to help the semi cleaver to bite when trying to plane.

The water intake should work if jacking the engine up a touch, BUT if the cone works very good the water will not be anywhere near that as the bullet will
be riding on top of the water surface and being sprayed outwards not upwards .
depends how high you are going to ride the motor


all looks very stuff. , some nice filling work been done there too. will you be making a torque tab for the skeg ?

I hope the ring works good for this propeller, if so I will be making one too.

.

[hupiveneilija]

Finally! L/U is done. Im quite satisfied for my work. Think i wetsand it with 1000 and then wax, same thing i did with the boat bottom. Slippery in a right way😊. See how that water intake works.

[filthy phill]

Looks very nice.
The home made coned front looks perfect, it realy has come out good.

what is the smaller hole for near the 2 exhaust holes ? external water pump fitting, or for flushing attachment.

[zul8tr]

Finally! L/U is done. Im quite satisfied for my work. Think i wetsand it with 1000 and then wax, same thing i did with the boat bottom. Slippery in a right way😊. See how that water intake works.

Very nice result. On my hydro bottoms wax never worked out for me, advice from Bob Wartinger (many hydro many speed records holder) he uses sanded. I use 320 wet in a fore aft direction, runs more controlled and faster on my rigs. I also use sanded gear case and satin finish props. Preference and what works for you.

[hupiveneilija]

On its place again!

[filthy phill]

that looks perfect, the cone looks like its always been there.

very good job, well done.

[Ron Hill]

that looks perfect, the cone looks like its always been there.

very good job, well done.

I made this cone for my own boat many years ago. I "CON" Bill Curtis into drilling them for low water...

Low Water: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Nose-Cone-for-15-70-HP-Outboard-Motors-/391793077607?

Nose Cone only: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Nose-Cone-15-70-HP-Outboard-Motors-/152524937289?vxp=mtr&hash=item238331d849

[hupiveneilija]

With this height constant 1.8bar water pressure. Go couple cm higher and drop ro 1.5, up from that gauge needle starts wondering up n down. Lower picture no pressure.

[filthy phill]

1.8 bar is 35 psi, that is nice and plenty of water for cooling.
so the big hole in the side works very good.

Well done, you now have a great gearbox that will cut through the water better and give good water pressure.

what was the original water pressure before any work on gearbox ?

[skeg]

The nose cone came out great. What is the purpose of the spacer at the prop? Is it suppose to send the exhaust out of the holes you added to the gear case?

[filthy phill]

Very funny.
It's there to help a over hub prop when pulling away
You can buy plastic ones but they fall off..
Large holes in gear case aid in better intake for water rather than needing low water pick up.
This bloke is getting 26psi water pressure with bullet just above bottom of transom. So it works perfect.

[hupiveneilija]

Like this engine height water pres.1,5bar

[filthy phill]

that is still almost 22 psi so should still be very good.

what pressure did you get before on normal gearcase ?

and what propeller is that on the engine now, it looks a good one.

[hupiveneilija]

If i remember correct it was 1.3bar with transom p/u.
Its a 18inc raker.

[filthy phill]

ahh so you now have a bit more water pressure than with transom pick up, that is realy good. makes it a nice neat project to do.
only problem I can see is there is no Gauze/filter material inside the large holes !!!
I would prefer to have a gauze or filter and I have some material that would be ideal for this, would not want something like plastic bag getting sucked in the
large water inlet and destroying water pump or stopping flow.

I like the exhaust deflectors, they look very good, definitely a nice extra touch.

[hupiveneilija]

This works like I was hoping it would. With this height dont need extra pickup. Go up from this and pressure drops a little before needle starts wondering up and down, so higher setup will need extra pickup for water.
What comes to that ring in front of prop and those exhaust holes above A/V plate, they make takeoff really easy. Foot down, nose up, when it comes down revs go up , ease on throttle.
VOILA' 20kn on plane, no hassle.

[filthy phill]

so this has helped the srx get up yes ?
it looks very very nice on the gearcase. that ring looks extra good.
you will have to take many pictures of the ring off and with sizes so I can copy it ha ha my srx is crap for pulling away, I need the top exhaust holes and that ring.

[filthy phill]

can you give a bit more details on what you done to your srx prop, I need to alter mine too.
need a bit more bite from start and a bit more bow lift on full speed.
I can do the tips to raise the rake a touch.

[hupiveneilija]

Someone before Me has make diam. smaller its like 13 1/4. Ive "derolled" leading edge away from propnut, more on the root of the blade little less toward tip. Straighten the cup before trailing edge (think cross section) little but then grinded real tight radius on to the trailing edge. Picture show how it goes around tip. Bent blade tip for less rake, helped driveability a lot. Leading edge is sharp and quite thin.

All this was two summers project, do one thing, go out to find not good. Again and again. I think now its really really close atleast if not ready.

[hupiveneilija]

Another L/U under construction. This time with lwp. Havent drilled holes to the cone yet. Its 3cm longer than first one. Maybe take little length off when holes are made, dont know yet.

[filthy phill]

well this looks pretty good.
have you thought about taking a mould off one of these and making fibreglass cones for these 50, 60, and 70hp motors ?
I like the shape you have made, looks realy good.

I would like to do this but I dont think I would be good enough for this.

have you made something so you know both sides are exactly the same ?

what metal is the pipe ? stainless or alloy ?

[hupiveneilija]

Lwp L/u waiting for paint!
Oh man, what one can do if want to😬.

[zul8tr]

Very well executed. You had a single tube (material ? and ID) embedded in the polyester filler, I assume you fashioned those 3 intake holes to the tube by drill after shaping the filler? Describe exactly what you did from the holes to the enclosed tube.

[hupiveneilija]

Yes I cut the pipe before start to baking it with filling and ofcourse took measurements where to drill after shaping l/u. Its somekind of a metalfilling, hardens real tuff but very easy to work with.
Drilling went 1mm off side😂. But yes have to use little imagination on the angles where to drill.

The pipe is 13mm inside, flattened so that shape is like raindrop,that way leading edge stays narrow enough.

[skeg]

Looks like you need to be in the forming nose business, great job.

[filthy phill]

Looks 100% perfect.
you have done a great job.
how do you make it so both sides are the same ?
to do one side and get it right yes that is hard enough,
but to get both sides looking so perfect ? brilliant work.

I do hope the material /filler stays hard for a long time.
.

[hupiveneilija]

By hand with gentle touch.😬

[zul8tr]

Yes I cut the pipe before start to baking it with filling and ofcourse took measurements where to drill after shaping l/u. Its somekind of a metalfilling, hardens real tuff but very easy to work with.
Drilling went 1mm off side😂. But yes have to use little imagination on the angles where to drill.

The pipe is 13mm inside, flattened so that shape is like raindrop,that way leading edge stays narrow enough.

Very clever approach, perfect symmetry, well done . I looked up the Metall Spackel 36-060 filler you use all I got was a web page in Norwegian. I found the specs in English. The product is a polyester based filler with aluminum pigments for increased strength and uses a hardener. No link to the product in USA. I use JB Weld (2 part Epoxy product) for such builds and repairs on my outboards and other things. It has a longer cure time than the Matall.

http://www.biltema.fi/BiltemaDocuments/TechnicalDataSheets/36060_TDS.pdf

[hupiveneilija]

Thats the one. I like to use it because it hardens real quick and becomes really hard. Its like 10min and can make new layer. Dont know how it holds for long period, will see that. But stays strong on coarse sanded aluminum surface. Dont go anywhere by scratchin.

Here is couple photos of the groove Ive grinded on the leading edge.

[hupiveneilija]

Need little red!

[hupiveneilija]

Here

[hupiveneilija]

Prop tools

[filthy phill]

yours Look like panel beaters dolly's.
whatever they are you are definitely getting shape of propeller good.
I am making my own tools and a anvil from rail track at the moment, very hard to grind and shape into what I realy want.

thanks for the ring sizes.

.

[hupiveneilija]

With red

[filthy phill]

Very nice.

[hupiveneilija]

Going tomorrow to test new version of the l/u. Last one stops feeding water just when need to raise lift some more and boat starts to feel good.
And made those exhaust deflectors longer.

[filthy phill]

Looks very good .
should work very well.

[hupiveneilija]

Yes it does. Didnt have a chance to run it good because awfull wind but hope tomorrow is better wheather to go out. Can take prop higher now, helps takeoff alot, it dont lift boats nose so high and planes faster.

[filthy phill]

it realy looks like a factory gearcase now.
it realy is a good looking job you have done.
you need to take a mould from it and make a few alloy nosecones or fibreglass cones, maybe even hard plastic ,
they would sell for sure.
nobody out there making nice cones to fit straight onto a omc 56 big gearcase.

[hupiveneilija]

L/u works great! Have it 2cm higher than before and boat was easier to drive, goes allmost neutral trim, with 2 its neutral and prop torque is way less than lower setup. And there is waterpressure all time except when when its all airborn. And best of all, dont need to drill anything on the transom!

Best mod ever with lifting strakes lenghtened on the bottom👌.

Have to try even higher.

[filthy phill]

good that its working like you want it too.
And good that it is holding up to high speed runs and not coming off.
have you thought about putting a torque tab on the bottom of the skeg being as it is running so high now ?

[filthy phill]

why did you make exhaust deflectors longer ?
is there a reason for this ?

[hupiveneilija]

Sound, its more quiet now. Softer sound.

[filthy phill]

ahh I see, that makes good sense.

.................................................. .

[JohnsonM50]

hupiveneilija, That's some really nice work you're doing, straight as can be & cleanly feathered. I'm glad you are getting desired results.

[hupiveneilija]

Thanks!
Worked real fine. Last saturday was very ruff but didnt lose water pressure not a single time despite running propshaft near inch over bottom.

[filthy phill]

Well it proves the low water pick up is working perfect if props hat is 1 inch above bottom of transom.
Plus it is also running on the cone good.
Definitely looks very good. Wish I could make one that good.

[JohnsonM50]

They really do work well, vulnerable only to clogging or running too slow & slow doesn't even count when you're running a pump. On height, the higher the better to a point, then control & traction diminish while speed doesn't increase anymore. Just right for your needs is what counts, if you want to turn well too high can be troublesome. To measure for being symmetric I made a wood gauge that clamps to the prop shaft & protrudes forward. It's being parallel to the shaft makes it easy to measure in from any point except where the devise hits the gear case & fin. I was surprised to find how off-center a few gear cases were.

[hupiveneilija]

Yes they do. Ive assembled motor so that it dont go too high, there is one bolt hole left and it stays that way😂. The boat starts to go little sideways when going too high thats the "dont go higher" mark for me.
I do all work just by hand, have how you say very sensitive touch/feel in my hands. Have to trust those.

Next todo list. Just need to change hub for correct splines. Its rubber cushioned.

[filthy phill]

The reason it try's to go sideways is prop walk. Your steering tab is out of the water. This is where torque tab works, and / or a longer skeg....
1 hole left, but your already using jackplate.
To have props haft level with boat means it is up 7 inches already. 20 inch mid put cav plate level with bot, centre of shaft is 7 inch from cav plate..
Plut you have 5 or 6 inches of setback too, so can go higher, depends where bullet is at full speed.
Camera time . Only way to tell is to see the video of the gearcase at full speed

As for engine gearcase not being central to hull that is correct, it should be off set slightly.
This counteracts prop torque.
Even st slow speed if the motor was aimed straight ahead and steering locked off eventual the boat would turn full circle.
Single outboard should be offset about 3/4 inch, more with big motors.

[filthy phill]

What prop is that on the latest pic ?
That don't look like srx.
Looks like a modified prop, strange blade shape.


QUOTE=hupiveneilija;152223]Yes they do. Ive assembled motor so that it dont go too high, there is one bolt hole left and it stays that way😂. The boat starts to go little sideways when going too high thats the "dont go higher" mark for me.
I do all work just by hand, have how you say very sensitive touch/feel in my hands. Have to trust those.

Next todo list. Just need to change hub for correct splines. Its rubber cushioned.[/QUOTE]

[hupiveneilija]

Am i missing something?

[filthy phill]

When running high the prop will try and steer the boat. This gets put right with a torque tab on the skeg. If running normal and cav plate level or buried the small trim tab under cav plate does the same job.
If nothing on skeg the the prop will be walking when on surface.
Fitting a tab on the skeg is easy. Either weld on or bolt on. It goes on driver side on your motor. Like small aerofoil just to help keep motor running straight without prop walking too much...
Stops the need to keep having to turn the wheel to go straight ahead.
also give a tiny bit more speed as keeps thrust in a straighter line.

[hupiveneilija]

Really?

[hupiveneilija]

Hey Phill,
Ive got little offshore boat that goes at best 57kn and in rough weather it can manage little less speed but over 50kn, do you really think that im not on the map with these things?

[filthy phill]

No need to get ****ty. You asked if your missing something.
It was You who mentioned about height and steering.

Being as you have not fitted torque tamer/tab to the skeg yet running high makes anyone presume you don't know about them or making one side of skeg flat and otherside convex to help with steering and prop walk effect...
For testing at high speed and running surface these should be thought about and implemented .
Y

[hupiveneilija]

😙😍.

[hupiveneilija]

Am i missing something?

Im sorry, forgot 😉. I just cant do this in english.😂😂

[JohnsonM50]

Im sorry, forgot 😉. I just cant do this in english.😂😂

Your English is far better than my Finnish ha ha.

[hupiveneilija]

Your English is far better than my Finnish ha ha.
It might be!
But yes, that 2blade ill give it a chance when get properly hubbed. It has been on my boat years ago. Went about 55kn with different motor back then. Its 25 now but dont know how it slips or dont so cant compare yet that pitch on my current prop. Have to get on water with that, then will see how it goes. Probably dont work because its 2 blade. 😉
Stay tuned!

[LittleCharger]

We don't run a torque tab on our little race boats, depending on set up if you can avoid having to run one you experience less drag, if you need one make sure you only make it large enough for you desired results. Prop walk is usually not solved with a torque tab you can cure prop walk sometimes by increasing the height or running a smaller diameter prop

[JohnsonM50]

Propwalk itself can be dangerous to outboard racers especially in the flat bottom types like hydro's & runabouts. With a left rotation prop & a turn fin or chicken wing [oval racers] if the prop throws the aft to the left it pits the fin against the surface in the wrong direction. This can violently barrel roll the boat stuffing the driver in it's path. It happened to me, I held tight but ended up sliding across the water anyway. I don't know how that would affect a V bottom but my guess is not well. I've seen a few mod hydros with extended skegs that seem to work well.

[filthy phill]

On a 16_17ft light deep v (talking proper deep v, narrow hull). Prop walk is lethal. Especially running in waves. Plus if your doing lot of straight line 10 miles plus you need some sort of trim find or tab. A torque tab on the skeg will not slow you down it helps increase speed, instead of having engine turning towards the right ,the tab let's engine stay straight. That combined with convex skeg it what offshore racers have done for about 40 years plus.
And less strain on steering.

.

[hupiveneilija]

Just came from boating,57.8kn not bad. Goes strait, no need to steer but just little movement on wheel. Other hand on the trim button😂. Steeringwheel is that much on the left because i put it 2 splines side if you know what i mean.
Engine is on line with boat, wheel is 10 'clock and that is fullspeed.

[filthy phill]

Yeah I know what you mean by 10 o,clock..
I would 100% put torque tab on if running with prop level with bottom. IF you catch up another boat cross his wash and the front dips a fraction you be pouting the wrong way in less than a heart beat. The prop can grab like a tyre on tarmac and spin the boat round so fast it's impossible to stop it. Hopefully you will never have it happen.

[JohnsonM50]

I know, I started slow.. paddling lol, then the evolution of a lifetime. Once you're into performance boating it all changes. At that point it's wise to have become a seasoned test driver learning to put a craft thru it's paces & recognize the potentials of trouble before they happen instead of playing cowboy to find out sooner while less in control. Especially in pleasure boating this is true, passengers, other boaters, rescue options etc. Racing is like that, it's drivers who seem to go all out but really have learned to push their equipment to the edge while most importantly maintaining strict control. The next boats can be close & there's little room for error. It's no longer a joy ride but a thrill ride then. Either way I'm sure hupiveneilija knows it well, pays attention & is on top of his game.

[filthy phill]

2 blade pop don't have enough blade area for the 2.42 big gear case 56.
Will get a move on, but nothing like srx or 24 pitch raker.

The higher the prop more tenancy to walk, it acts like paddle wheel when real high (surfacing).

[hupiveneilija]

2 blade pop don't have enough blade area for the 2.42 big gear case 56.
Will get a move on, but nothing like srx or 24 pitch raker.

Next is sad but true, approx 12% slip, ~7800rpm. Only two blades.

https://youtu.be/-B550K_7w2U
Near end was turning slightly to starboard where the route goes, started sliding loose but managed to keep it in the right direction! 😓

https://youtu.be/3Z0kcnFOufE
This was speed run 😬.

[filthy phill]

Go check out the top speeds of the phantom 16 , marshan 16, etc with under 100hp motors !!!

[hupiveneilija]

Best speed ever with 2persons, 56kn driven yesterday.
Only 2 blades.

[filthy phill]

you need a new speedometer.

[hupiveneilija]

Why?

[filthy phill]

Because you stated speeds are not only incorrect t, but they are impossible to attain with what you are working with..
Your last attempt at was 56 knots.
56 knots is 64mph. And you think that is real ? On 17ft boat with 2 people ?

[hupiveneilija]

Are you serious?
Maybe those satellites were in the wrong orbit, who knows:confused:.

[paavojaelvis]

On 17ft boat with 2 people ?

It's 16 ft.

[hupiveneilija]

It's 16 ft.
17ft
Done things that cant be done with it, atleast everybody says so.
But one thing is accurate and that is speed, unless somebody has done something failure on GlobalPositioningSystem.

[hupiveneilija]

Your last attempt at was 56 knots
Not attempt, just drove and tapped trimbutton slightly at the time and hey what you see, 56 on gps;). Thought i was overtrimming huge but it was in normal settting when slowed down.
Slight backwind offcourse, if it helps to deal with it.

Ps. Almost forget, not even fullthrottle, flaps were over level about 5to6 deg.😂😂

[filthy phill]

64mph 2 people 17ft boat and NOT EVEN FULL THROTTLE....

and all these other poor folks with genuine full factory race motors not getting anywhere near this ...


62680

[hupiveneilija]

Well yes, i trust that Garmin gps plotter wich i use for speedo and trip.
I suppose everything klicked in place with 2 person and that 2blade prop. Weight balance, trim, prop pitch and slip.

[hupiveneilija]

This is height now, have to move motor up on the lift that one hole whats left.
Atleast this height waterpressure is constant.

[filthy phill]

Looks nice.
Just need that cone to hold up to the speed and pressure.
So far so good.

[hupiveneilija]

Speed update:
Two person load 57kn. Slight backwind.

Did little mod for propeller tip.

[zul8tr]

Speed update:
Two person load 57kn. Slight backwind.

Did little mod for propeller tip.

That is down from 58.7 you posted back in July? Or are you using a different prop from then? Conditions change so hard to tell what is working. What about rpms?

[hupiveneilija]

With 2 person load!

That 58.7kn was with 1 person load and twoblade.

It would be interesting to see front/rear balance with 1 and 2 person load. My guess is that
co-driver in place moves balance just a little towards aft. With 1 i have to use little more trim and prop starts to slip, because front is little heavier then.

[filthy phill]

Two person load 57kn. Slight backwind = 65.9 mph




= . 62970

[Per]

That was rude and unnecessary. The speed is very good, but not unobtainable.

[filthy phill]

and who do you think you are to tell me what I write is rude an unnecessary ?

I only told the truth,
I am not going to believe the bull****, you go ahead and believe it if you want.

[LittleCharger]

With 2 person load!

That 58.7kn was with 1 person load and twoblade.

It would be interesting to see front/rear balance with 1 and 2 person load. My guess is that
co-driver in place moves balance just a little towards aft. With 1 i have to use little more trim and prop starts to slip, because front is little heavier then.

Nice number 👍

[zul8tr]

and who do you think you are to tell me what I write is rude an unnecessary ?

I only told the truth,
I am not going to believe the bull****, you go ahead and believe it if you want.

Who are you to tell him he can't? He has an opinion as well as you. You both are entitled to them and what you believe.

[filthy phill]

no your not getting the point
he has no right to tell me I am rude, I was not being rude,

he could of just said its a possible speed with that boat and motor ( oh no its not) but to tell me I am being rude is not correct.



and you need to read again what I wrote before getting your knickers in a twist too.

you even quoted the bit I put about he can believe what he wants !!!! I never said he could not

[ferdthe4]

Nice nose cones great work if I ever get around to messing with a prop on my boat makes me want to take a wack at doing something similar thanks for posting up the build and results.

[Per]

and who do you think you are to tell me what I write is rude an unnecessary ?

I only told the truth,
I am not going to believe the bull****, you go ahead and believe it if you want.

I am just a reader of this interesting thread. I felt that if you don't belive the numbers posted why not just say so. I'm sure that is possible without telling people they are talking bs. Or even better, just don't read it if you don't find the information accurate enough.
English is not my first language so I'm sorry if I might have offended you. Just wanted to point out that the thread does not benefit from pictures and statements like that. Not from posts like these either I guess. ..

[hupiveneilija]

Finally some videos for nosecone!

https://youtu.be/KAe3t9Baw5E
https://youtu.be/iyHhNb-so1A
https://youtu.be/zbKMQacei-c

-J-

Ps. 60.9kn https://youtu.be/mBpubbTVHeo

[hupiveneilija]

Hello!
Latest version of the nosecone.

[hupiveneilija]

And finished!😬

[Hans69]

So has there been any development i Funland this year.
We're all eagerly awaiting updates.;)
At least i am......

[hupiveneilija]

Here too, driven with new nosecone. This is too high to keep motor temp in control, have to make little modification on the water intake.
Sorry for the bad picture😀!

-J-

[Hans69]

Great to see progress even if it's not as expected.

[hupiveneilija]

Great to see progress even if it's not as expected.

Well actually it was, didnt mean to drive this high. 8mm lower it works perfectly!

-J-

[hupiveneilija]

Okay, modified water intake. Waiting for paint.
Tried to make it 1cm lower, see how it works!

-J-

Edit: painted