Quincy Looper FB 127

[Bob Dunlap]

This is Quincy Looper FB 127 after a complete restoration and rebuild. It was originally purchased and owned by Dick O'Dea. The engine is in great shape and now has new rings and is ready to run or show.

[Tomtall]

Bob - Nice Job. What does the spray shield look like?

[Allen J. Lang]

Bob- Looks super. Great job. :)
Ye Olde Desert Geezer Al :cool:

[Mark75H]

Beautiful, Bob :)

[David Weaver]

Bob,

The engine looks great for its age!!

BTW - So do you...HAPPY BIRTHDAY. I believe that you are more ready to "run" than show however!!:D

DW

[Composite Specialties]

Hey Bob, when are you going to restore my Dad's D-Looper and post some pics.

[Allen J. Lang]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY Bob. Here is to MANY more years of restoring and RACING.
YODG Al :cool:

[Joe Silvestri 36-S]

Very cool Bob. Frank Dempster got my dad starting in racing when my dad was around 12 years old. Frank lived down the street from my dad in Brewster, Ohio. My dad started going to Frank's house helping build boats and motors and eventually doing all of the work on Frank's motors so I'm sure he worked on the engine you have. I'll call my dad tonight and have him check out the pictures of your restoration. Great Job!

[fbref5269]

bob,

the b looks great!!!! and i see it's your birthday. happy birthday.

frank

[Master Oil Racing Team]

A great birthday gift to all us other BRF members from you to us. Happy Birthday Bob.

And I have a question to go along with this. I still have to get the exterior casting of my Konig to look better. It's O.K. like it is, but for the people that come to my house that never raced, I would like it to be more like your beautiful restoration job. The only problem is I don't want to disassemble it. Everything is free. The cylinders look good. Pistons are new. Need to change the ball bearings that the rotary valve belt turns the corner on, but that's no big deal. Some time back Paul posted the name of a good metal cleaner and I looked it up on the internet. At the time I couldn't decide which one of the products would best suit my needs. I need to get this project done and I had planned to get back ahold of Paul to get his ideas, but since I have seen your work, I thought maybe you could pass along a hint or two.

Again.....a fanstastic job. It's guys like you that inspire others to go digging around to find stuff, dust it off, rebuild and reclaim it for it's rightful place in history. And with Paul digging up the dyno cards on the Merc/Quincy's.....WOW!:cool:

[Bob Rusnak]

There are two cleaners that remove most of the dirt and grime from old alky engines. Most of the alum. parts come out like new castings. One product is (Purple Power). I buy it in a 1 gal bottle and put it in a spray bottle. I use it after a weekend of racing and for any old restorations. The other is (Engine Tune) by OMC or CRC, the stuff you spray into a running engine to remove carbon and stuck rings. I found this to work very well on the exterior of engines. Purple Power is available at most auto parts stores and Engine Tune at most marine supply stores. I am shure there are many other products that work out there so maybe some more products will be mentioned for me to try..Bob N-96

[Dave_E71]

I'll second the vote for the purple stuff! A couple of cautions though,
Don't let it sit undiluted on polished aluminum or you'll be polishing it again...
If it's undiluted you might want to wear gloves, it takes the oils out of your hands that lotions won't help until that layer(s) of skin come off, on the up side, it only takes a couple days.....
Steel will rust after you clean with this stuff, so after you spent the time getting everything so nicely degunked, think about a little WD40 on things that might turn orange.....

Yes, these are all personal experiences :o

Dave

[mercguy]

I'll second the vote for the purple stuff! A couple of cautions though,
Don't let it sit undiluted on polished aluminum or you'll be polishing it again...
If it's undiluted you might want to wear gloves, it takes the oils out of your hands that lotions won't help until that layer(s) of skin come off, on the up side, it only takes a couple days.....
Steel will rust after you clean with this stuff, so after you spent the time getting everything so nicely degunked, think about a little WD40 on things that might turn orange.....

Yes, these are all personal experiences :o

Dave



I second everything you have just said Dave!! My hands have been chewed up a few times by the stuff! By the way, Home Depot sells the same stuff "Industrial Purple". I buy it in the 5gal bucket, as I use it ALOT!!;)

[Master Oil Racing Team]

Okay guys.....it's time to try purple power. I savvy the extreme surfactant part. We did some experimental stuff with Conoco in the mid 80's and even the hint of the stuff would absorb all the oil from your eyeballs. I guess your eyelids would lock up in the top dead center position.:eek:;). Thanks much for the input.

[fbref5269]

hi all,

went out in the rain tonight and got some of the industrial purple stuff from home depot. i've started cleaning the jimmie nichols engine and cleaned 2 of the elbows with something called noxon i got from ace hardware. that engine is in better shape than fc52. i'll clean the other 2 elbows with the purple stuff and post the pictures.

about this skin removing feature...... think i'll use gloves. going into tax season i need the skin on my hands(i'm an accountant). although when i first started fc52's cleaning i cleaned some parts in carb cleaner bare handed.... i started to shed:)

frank