Awesome! Thanks Per!
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Awesome! Thanks Per!
Many thanks Per. Highly interesting for us motorheads. Are you going to dyno the motor after completion/running in? Or alternatively will you be able to give us some on-boat performance numbers? What make pistons/rings will you be installing? What props are these? In `69 I bought four props from Swedish company Man A/B (not related to German MAN), after getting their contact details from those Swedes who were racing the NSU Wankels in 2ltr inboard class. Very good props, but it appears Man A/B are not in business anymore?
Wow! Fantastic layout of photos Per. How long was the motor sitting before the teardown?
Thanks for the kind words!
Hopefully I will be able to at least give you some "on boat performance report" once the boat I'm working on is back on the water. It might take a while though...
Pistons and rings will be VP items.
As the block was bored to the second oversize I had huge trouble finding even a good looking used piston for that hole. I will use the original ones in cyl #1 and 3.
Rings are NOS.
The two round ear props are Rakers but the Cleaver is a bit of a mystery, there are no markings except for pitch and diam. Anybody recognize it?
Never heard of MAN AB, must check that company with some old racer!
I'm not really sure how long the engine been sitting. I bought a "pile" of VP700 parts from a small local outboard repair shop and the engine was part of the deal. There were no signs of rust anywhere though so it must have been used a couple of years ago.
As far as know these engines where never used in racing but I'm planning to build a "classic racer" with a Swedish boat AND motor. That might draw some attention if i ever get finished...
Per, thanks for the answers and the pictures. French Creek Marine bought most of the the left over inventory of V.P. outboard parts in the U.S about 12 or 13 yrs ago. I have no idea what they have left, but if you need any parts you could give them a try :http://frenchcreekmarina.com/service.htm
Dale
Thanks Dale!
Will give them a try next time I need some hard to find part.
//Per
Tim,
I don't have any pics of of the ex-ports looking in and I think that a photo like that might require a small mirror (and a steady hand:) ). I'm going to my work shop tomorrow and I will give it a try!
What are you hooping to see? I might be able to give you the answer in writing instead.
This is not the prototype of the GTX, all production engines were cast iron, a reall shame in my opinion since most of these engines have seized because Volvo Penta didn't use any coating in the water passages and after a while they contain more rust than water....
The early engines had a aluminum head that looks just some of the heads in the pictures from Königs work shop, later engines has cast iron heads and and a hose from the waterjacket around the exhaust.
-77 a jubilee serie engine was released, it had tighter heads, revised ignition timing and rejetted carbs, These changes where then used under the last two years of production.
The early engines produced 67hp @ 5600 (acc to the workshop manual)
The Jubilee engine is listed with the same output but acc to an old VP employe it was closer to 75 (all crank hp of course...)
Luckily this powerhead is from the last year of production and the seems to have galvanized (spelling?) the block before machining.
Maybe I should start a new thread about these engines? Even though König was involved in the design it is not a König engine, Opinions please!?
Per
Hello Per,
Thank you - your response answers my question indirectly: If you need a mirror to view the exhaust duct, it must be internally cast. I was hoping it might be external to see how VP joined the widely spaced exhaust ports.
Looking more closely at your powerhead base image, the flat exhaust side cover now makes sense - it's only a water jacket. If my interpretation of your images and question is correct there is no need for right angle images the merge is hidden.
It's a shame an iron block was used. Your assessment about rust causing poor heat transfer is right on. In your engine the middle cylinder took more damage than the top and bottom. Is this typical of this design?
Question: Is the middle cylinder fed partly through both carburetors? If so, might this cylinder run lean due to reduced pulse strength? If so, this may contribute to the overheat problem.
Regardless, this is a very clever, simple, and compact design. Best of luck with your overhaul. Please post images of reassembly. Thanks again for responding.
Tim
BTW - Nice hand work!
Hello Tim,
You are correct in all your interpretations!
The exhaust is internaly cast.
The exhaust ports enters into a almost straight tapered pipe. So there are no separate primary pipe at all.
If you were refering to the spacing of the ports in one cylinder:
The divider looks pretty much like a enlongaded (spelling?) D. The first enige that I overhauled actually had a water passage through it...
Judging by the engines I've seen I would say you might be right about the lean out effect in the middle cylinder, the intake porting is different from #1 & 3 (shorter than the other) but of course twice the area.
The fact that it is so compact must contribut to the risk of over heating too I think.
The engine block and crank is already put togheter and there are no pics of that for the simple reason that I had no spare hand during that operation:)
There will be more pics though...
Thanks for asking!
Without questions there would be nothing written about it.
Per